cmatthes

VERY sad. That bums me out. I consider myself extremely fortunate for having seen him perform live, and he never failed to impress and entertain. He will be missed terribly.

Barry - see post #11 above...

Naw - I'm saving up for the Schlabotnicks.

Clearly, it isn't about the tone. It's about bragging rights!

Same d'bag is also selling a Pigtail Stop/Tuna set for $425?

Specials = no binding

Depends on a number of factors - some can more than double the price. Basic charge for a Fender-style, bolt-on body is usually the starting point. Things that can add to the price include: Type of finish - Basic opaques are usually the cheapest, then sunbursts, translucents, double-stains, metallics, flakes, etc. can get more expensive. Custom graphics will be based on the complexity and are usually added on top of basic charges. Vintage-correct restorations or aged/relic finishes also add to the price. Nitro, poly, hybrids...more choices! Features - set necks and neck throughs, guitars with body or neck binding, etc. will cost more, as there is more labor involved (masking/scraping binding, headstock matching...). I've been quoted anywhere from $200 to $1,500 for refins in recent years.

If you want one like this, you'd have to talk to Rick Nielsen...or Peter Fung. Those are the only two I know that have Vectors like this. In the meantime, try a Phantom on for size!

Damn, that's cool.

I don't regret getting my Daytona "Stike-A-Fied" one bit. It is one of two guitars that I grab all the time. I wouldn't trade it nor sell it for 4x what I've got into it.

I was thinking this:

I'm a fan of the Sustainblock as well, but it definitely depends on the guitar. As far as a trem, the PRS unit has them all beat in my opinion. For bass, the 2TEK has no equal to me.

I think it would depend on the amp, but I'm typically a minimalist pedalwise. I pretty much always plug into a TU-2 (gotta be in tune, right?), but rarely use much else. For Guitar, I'll add the Janglebox for really nice clean tones and maybe a volume/wah, and use either a compressor/limiter and (or) Bass Driver for Bass. I have some cool pedals, but unless I have the need to use a delay (either a DD-3 or a Carbon Copy), I don't touch them too much.

It's a work in progress. It has progressed considerably from this stage:

I've got something coming down the pike in the near future that should burn some retinas...

Because you could probably hear him swearing from where you are sitting!

But if it was on the Gear Page, that entire list would be attached as a signature line.

Sheer badness. +1 on the coolness of the Stike clan.

Lotta stuff there! If he has to sell EVERYTHING (and means "everything"), he might want to adjust some of those prices. A lot of cool stuff, but he's got most of them marked as if it was still 2007.

With $1,000, you're looking at a beater AVRI or a MIJ/CIJ or the new MIM model with the moved tailpiece. I've seen some good deals on the AVRIs over the last few years, and there seems to be a lot of them on the market up for grabs right now. I'd hold out and look for one of those if I were you. They are WORLDS better than the imported stuff, although I'd definitely snag a J. Mascis JM if the price was right (IMHO, the best non-AVRI JM out there). You may need to replace the pickups and/or the pots on the imported stuff, and those trems aren't as sturdy as the US part, but replacements are easy to find and affordable. They are definitely cool guitars, but don't expect it to be like a Strat or P-90 guitar. It has it's own unique thing going on - play a few and you'll see. You probably won't find anything from the '60s or early '70s in your price range, but projects and deals do pop up every now and then. I've got most of a '64 JM that's going back together once it's refinned properly. Putting SD Antiquities in there, but almost took the plunge on a set of Novaks - that guy KNOWS Jazzmasters. Check out the Offset Forum for a good start. They get kind of judgemental at times, but a lot of good info there. http://www.offsetguitars.com/forums

DB: Found it! It was in the bridge position of a "project" 4-digit Standard I've got hanging around... The only downside is that the lead is 4.5" long - probably okay for a bridge pickup, but will need to be spliced if you needed a neck p/u. Let me know if you're interested...

DB: Let me check at home tonight - I may still have one of those pickups left.

Now I didn't say that...

Must be you. I'll do a test, but I don't see anything up with the boardware.

I remember being in first or second grade and all the girls on the playground were singing "Billy Don't Be A Hero", holding hands and crying.