mathman Posted November 20, 2025 Author Posted November 20, 2025 So, researching about these basses. Of course somewhat difficult with the imports but at least according to the 12 string bass encyclopedia website this one is probably one of the early Korean versions. The first set had either the wrong jack or an incorrectly wired jack. Supposedly it is supposed to be a stereo jack but produces mono sound. The other channel acts as a method to turn on the active electronics when the cable is plugged in. Then turned off when unplugged. My battery went dead after 6 days. I've have seemingly found the fix on the interwebs. Have to see if I can fix it tomorrow. https://www.12stringbass.net/hamer-ch-12 https://www.12stringbass.net/ch12-wiring 2 Quote
velorush Posted November 20, 2025 Posted November 20, 2025 EMG uses the same method (stereo output jack) to turn the preamp on/off. This might be helpful: Artboard 1 (PDF). Battery negative to Ring, Pickup output to Tip and Sleeve (as normal). 2 Quote
hamerhead Posted November 20, 2025 Posted November 20, 2025 Saw your video with it, Kirk. Sounds good even with the missing string! 2 Quote
mathman Posted November 21, 2025 Author Posted November 21, 2025 Looks like I will have to partially remove the current jack to see what type of stereo jack will fit in there. Not part of the rear cavity. Quote
mathman Posted November 21, 2025 Author Posted November 21, 2025 Only two wires are sent to the jack so I know it is wired wrong. 1 Quote
burningyen Posted November 21, 2025 Posted November 21, 2025 On 11/15/2025 at 3:43 PM, seeker said: Loosen tension on strings till it lays flat. Super Glue. You're Welcome. You can try wicking some water-thin superglue into the screw holes to try to harden the wood, letting it dry, and then rescrewing. I would avoid supergluing the bridge itself into place, as that may just result in the finish going with the bridge next time it lifts up, and it would make any later servicing a pain. 3 Quote
Victor (Fret Friend) Posted November 21, 2025 Posted November 21, 2025 Drill, plug, redrill… 3 1 Quote
mathman Posted November 21, 2025 Author Posted November 21, 2025 So, since this seems to be the Korean version it may be made of Mahogany instead of basswood. The cavity is painted so can't really tell there but I removed the jack this morning to see what size stereo plug would fit. There is a small section of the wood that is not painted. It is only a small part but it is reddish in color not light or whitish. Look like Mahogany? 2 Quote
hamerhead Posted November 21, 2025 Posted November 21, 2025 I'm no Euell Gibbons but it looks like mahogany to me. 2 1 Quote
bry4321 Posted November 21, 2025 Posted November 21, 2025 14 minutes ago, hamerhead said: I'm no Euell Gibbons but it looks like mahogany to me. I never knew that's how it was spelled! 3 Quote
velorush Posted November 21, 2025 Posted November 21, 2025 2 minutes ago, bry4321 said: I never knew that's how it was spelled! I just remember being maybe six and begging mom for Grape Nuts at Kroger. She finally gave in. I was really put out, "Hey! There are no grapes in here! This is gross!" 5 Quote
burningyen Posted November 21, 2025 Posted November 21, 2025 4 hours ago, Victor (Fret Friend) said: Drill, plug, redrill… Agreed that that’s the best option. 2 Quote
mathman Posted November 23, 2025 Author Posted November 23, 2025 First repair successful. Stereo jack installed with connection to the battery. Works as it should now. We'll see if the battery drains in a week again but I don't think it will.. Hopefully. 2 1 1 Quote
mathman Posted November 26, 2025 Author Posted November 26, 2025 So, the bass had no case. It is about the same size as my Fender Bullet bass so I am hoping this gig bag deal for the stupid deal will hold it. https://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/gator-gt-bass-tpv2-transit-pro-bass-guitar-gig-bag/l96285000001000 2 Quote
mathman Posted November 28, 2025 Author Posted November 28, 2025 I have to admit my creativity has waned as of late but buying this bass has made me want to write songs again. Will be a while before I get it all going but I am also stoked to finally getting my hip issues improved. So the joy of skateboarding again mixed with a bucket list bass means I am playing it everyday. Trying to jam through some ideas for a song. Just a short little jam as I try to find my voice with this bass. 5 Quote
mathman Posted December 9, 2025 Author Posted December 9, 2025 (edited) On 11/14/2025 at 12:12 PM, velorush said: Just spit balling, but I'd be inclined to (with string tension off) loosen the tailpiece mounting screws - not seeing it in person, I'm betting the bridge being in that position has artificially beveled the face of the guitar by digging into the wood. [Theory being: the tailpiece was installed originally with loosened screws and pitched forward under string tension, digging into the wood. It's been that way for so long it has attached itself in that position]. If you can loosen it up, then put it flat on the face, then retighten the screws, you should have the correct orientation when string tension is reestablished. [/spit ball] Winner, winner, Chicken Dinner! So, while I had great fun playing this beast it required constant re-tuning. So, either the tuners are bad (probably cheap) or the tailpiece is not holding steady. So, yea, not great tuners but the tail piece has definitely dug into the body. The screws appear to be more like sheet metal than wood screws. Not much thread if you know what I mean. Definitely a dent in the body. Wondering if just a simple metal plate under the bridge would make it stable. I will be honest. I am not so concerned with how it looks as to how it plays. Pics. Edited December 9, 2025 by mathman 1 Quote
mathman Posted December 9, 2025 Author Posted December 9, 2025 On 11/14/2025 at 12:52 PM, svl said: Turn the tailpiece "backward", drill new screw holes and it will lay flat as a pancake. Actually, I think I could do this and not drill new screw holes and have it lay flat. Is that extra half inch going to affect anything as far as intonation or tuning? I don't think it would since the bridge will not move. The strings will be a little bit longer so slightly less tension but would it be enough to matter? Quote
mathman Posted December 9, 2025 Author Posted December 9, 2025 (edited) Well, quickly realized why that won't work. Tailpiece has a large opening for the two higher octave strings and a smaller for the low octave string. Flipping the taillpiece changes the order and it won't match the tuners any longer. So, back to other methods. Edited December 10, 2025 by mathman that confounded bridge word Quote
Dutchman Posted December 9, 2025 Posted December 9, 2025 On 11/14/2025 at 9:54 AM, velorush said: With no string tension, can the tailpiece mounting screws be tightened to bring the tailpiece down to the face of the guitar? The tailpiece doesn't appear to be beveled on the bottom so that this is the engineered position. With that, it appears it would be loose without string tension. I would take the screws out and I think you'll find they are distorted in some fashion. Wore on one side, or bent. The metals they use in Asian builds is not as good as the hardened screws made in the USA. Then replace with the immediate next size larger USA hardened screw of the same length. That would be my first approach just looking at the picture. 1 Quote
RobB Posted December 9, 2025 Posted December 9, 2025 (edited) Do you know a skilled repair shop? Maybe you could dowel the mounting holes and have the tailpiece countersunk 1/16-1/8"? Either way, it's only a matter of time before the string tension permanently fuks the tailpiece mounting. Edited December 9, 2025 by RobB 1 Quote
mathman Posted December 9, 2025 Author Posted December 9, 2025 2 hours ago, RobB said: Do you know a skilled repair shop? Maybe you could dowel the mounting holes and have the tailpiece countersunk 1/16-1/8"? Either way, it's only a matter of time before the string tension permanently fuks the tailpiece mounting. There is a really good shop in Tampa that actually has some Hamer ties that I have used to do a setup on my Prototype and to install some of Josh's pickups in my old Fender bass. Since I am 98% positive this is mahogany wood and not the soft basswood of the later imports I am putting some support washers under the tailpiece and adding slightly larger and much better screws into the wood. Will be stringing it up tomorrow ( and maybe for a few days. 12 freaking strings! ha) but it feels way more stable at this point. If this doesn't work then I will consider something else. One thing mentioned in the other thread was that the screws turned in the wood and didn't catch. Actually the original screws removed with no problem and then held pretty well once reinstalled with adding the support of some metal washers. But I decided to take Dutchman's advice and go slightly larger in the wood screws. If it has to be doweled out and replaced then a slightly bigger screw would make not difference. I do think the tuners are not that great. (no surprise, it is the import) So, if the tailpiece holds well, I will probably replace the tuners. I guess that will be a piece meal method of sourcing those. again, Thanks for all the help 1 Quote
hamerhead Posted December 10, 2025 Posted December 10, 2025 Another option (mounted from the back): Much greater holding power than wood screws. 1 Quote
Victor (Fret Friend) Posted December 10, 2025 Posted December 10, 2025 (edited) Drill out the screw holes, plug (with dowel) and re-drilling for new screws! This is the correct method to fix this problem… Edited December 10, 2025 by Victor (Fret Friend) 1 Quote
mathman Posted December 12, 2025 Author Posted December 12, 2025 Eventually I will do a proper fix but using my duck tape and bailing wire certifications I have the tail piece stable and the bass is staying in tune. Back to having fun with this bad boy…. 2 Quote
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