Why can't I stay in tune?!

[Zipper Neck]

Hey guys,

I played a show last night and I noticed that I had to tune my Monaco Elite after almost every song. Now I do move around a lot and I sometimes hit the strings very hard, but so do many other band and they don't seem to have this problem. Sometimes the strings will go out of tune simply due to bending. I was thinking of getting a TonePros bridge with graphite saddles, a graphite nut and new tuners (maybe Sperzel locking tuners).

Would this be a good decision? What are some alternatives?

Thanks,

Paul

[serial]

Chapstick the nut when you change strings. STRETCH the hell outta the strings. Those two things relieve 99% of tuning issues for me.

[straightblues]

Serial has it right. If would also add chapstick at the saddles. If you do that and you still have problems, then take your guitar to a good tech for a setup. Hamer uses good parts so you shouldn't need any new ones.

One other thing, are you using good quality strings or the $2 a pack one from the Guitar Center sale?

[unfun 75]

I have recently found that the way the strings are installed makes a big difference. I watched the "how to restring your guitar" video on the D'Addario site and tried that method. It improved the tuning stability on my old Yamaha SG. I was a happy man. Here's a link:

http://www.daddario.com/Resources/JDCDAD/V...ar_less_vid.wvx

[pesocaster]

a little pencil graphite in the nut works miracles....

[kurtsstuff]

Face it....The guitar sucks and you should sell it to me for $350.00 Cuz...I like helping people out

[Zipper Neck]

Face it....The guitar sucks and you should sell it to me for $350.00 Cuz...I like helping people out

I was afraid of that. Damn.

I do want to get Sperzel locking tuners for my Hamer though. Thoughts?

[lonote049]

Face it....The guitar sucks and you should sell it to me for $350.00 Cuz...I like helping people out

I was afraid of that. Damn.

I do want to get Sperzel locking tuners for my Hamer though. Thoughts?

In my experience, most problems like yours are caused by the strings binding in the nut rather than because of faulty tuners.

[elduave]

I have recently found that the way the strings are installed makes a big difference. I watched the "how to restring your guitar" video on the D'Addario site and tried that method. It improved the tuning stability on my old Yamaha SG. I was a happy man. Here's a link:

http://www.daddario.com/Resources/JDCDAD/V...ar_less_vid.wvx

+1. The way it's strung can make a huge difference.

[seeker]

First and foremost is how you string the guitar. It took me forever to get it right. I think the D'Adario video is right, but can't quite tell.

Primarily, you want the portion of the string that has gone thru the post hole to be wrapped around and underneath the portion of the string betwen the nut and the entrance to the post hole. As you turn the tuner, the tension of the string from the post entrance to the nut to the bridge holds the post-hole string tightly up against the post.

This is about the best visualization I could find: String Guitar

After that, use nutsauce (graphite) on the nut slots.

[sw686blue]

I really don't think that you need to change the tuning heads or the bridge components. Hamer uses really good quality parts. Here are some of the things that you should look at:

1) Strings. Did you stretch them properly? Are you sure? Personally, it takes me close to 30 minutes to stretch all the strings so that they do not go out of tune. Tune/stretch/tune/stretch/tune/stretch/etc...Good strings matter too.

2) Nut. Check to make sure that it was cut well and doesn't snag the string. If you have nut files, you can make some adjustments if necessary. Do this only if you have the proper tools and feel comfortable.

3) Saddles. Check them just like you did the nut. Again, only make adjustments if you have the tools and know-how.

4) Tuners. Make sure that the tuners are smooth and that there is no wobble in the post.

[hamerhead]

I usually tune approximately to pitch, give each string 3 good yanks at the 12th fret (careful with that high 'E'), retune to pitch, and I'm good to go.

Seeker's link is very helpful.

[FunkyE9th]

Always tune UP, not DOWN to pitch, so you're tightening the strings when tuning. For example, if you're tuning the E string go from Eb to E. If you go sharp, bring it back down and tune up to pitch.

-FunkyE9th

[MCChris]

1) Strings.

2) Nut.

3) Saddles.

4) Tuners.

What he said. Address the issues in this order, being sure to add proper installation to the first tip. As far as the nut, if your strings "ping" when you tune them to pitch, it needs to be recut.

The main benefit of Sperzels is ease and quickness of stringing, with tuning stability an added bonus as they take any installation issues out of the equation. Also, they only have a 12:1 ratio (at least the 6 in-line ones do) so you might find they are less precise than what you already have.

[mattb]

[tafkathundernotes]

I have the tone-pros bridge with graph-tech saddles and I have very good tuning stability. All the other good ideas have been presented.

Tune up to the pitch

Wrap around tuner post correctly

Maybe some chapstick or nut sauce to reduce binding

[Guest pirateflynn]

Yeah, these guys have it covered. The only thing I can add is that I sometimes literally pull the guitar out of tune grabbing the neck with a heavy handed style.

[Craig S]

I once got a nice sustainblock Special because the previous owner said the D@m# thing wouldn't stay in tune... I made sure the nothing was binding and that the strings were well stretched in and that guitar was perfect. My experience is most tuning isssues are a hangup in the nut or bridge but most usually a bad wrap on the post or strings not stretched in..

[Zipper Neck]

Thanks for all of your help guys!