There I go screwing up another guitar

[atquinn]

So, I decided to tweak my guitars a little this weekend (except the Daytona, which is perfect). I tweaked the truss rod and the action a bit on the Blue Stuidio Custom and then I was locking the tonespros bridge down...

...I think you might know where this is going...

...yes, that's right! I was tightening the bass side down when, pop! I felt the grub screw snap. The good news is everything is dialed in great, so I don't really have to do anything about it right now. But say I did want to adjust the TOM at some point down the line. How the hell do I get that grub screw out of there when it's snapped in half? I have all sorts of half-baked ideas, but I thought I'd consult the experts before I break something else!

-

Austin

[RobB]

(cue muted trumpet): "Bwaah, bwommmp!"

Looks like most of the screw extractors I've looked at are designed for wood screws.

Here's what I would do:

1. Remove the treble-side screw and keep it safe

2. Measure the size of the set screw for the hardware store trip and purchase a few extras

3. Measure the distance of the hole opening to the bridge post

4. Gather up a couple of carbide drillbits and cutting fluid: a small one for a "starter" hole and a larger one that is just a couple of hairs smaller than broken screw

5. Tape off the drill bits with the proper measurement from step 3 above

6. Start the pilot hole with the small bit, add small drops of cutting oil as needed.

7. Finish with the larger bit, being careful not to gouge the threads in the hole wall. If you're lucky, the remnants of the broken screw might be weakened enough to either crumble away or you could encourage them with a dental pick.

[atquinn]

Doh! Yeah I thought that would be the general procedure. Too much of a PITA for me to even attempt at this point. Although I do already have extra grub screws, so it would mostly be the drill bits. Tricky angle for the drilling though.

-

Austin

[hamerhead]

If you can get a small hole started, sometimes it works to tap a small slotted screwdriver gently into the hole, then very carefully back the remaining piece out. I've done this successfully a number of times, but you have to take care that you get the hole started dead center. And don't break the tip of your screwdriver off in the hole. And don't f^ck the threads up. And don't put a big gouge in the face of your guitar.

AND FOR GOD'S SAKE MAN - Stop wrenching on those tiny screws so hard!

[RobB]

If you can get a small hole started, sometimes it works to tap a small slotted screwdriver gently into the hole, then very carefully back the remaining piece out. I've done this successfully a number of times, but you have to take care that you get the hole started dead center. And don't break the tip of your screwdriver off in the hole. And don't f^ck the threads up. And don't put a big gouge in the face of your guitar.

THIS is why the HFC is such a great forum. An even better method with much less chance of ruining the bridge. Easier, too.

BTW, stop wrenching on those tiny screws so hard!

[Ting Ho Dung]

I thought those screws were there for when you change strings to hold the bridge in position. I leave mine loose (not real loose but not tight) when the guitar is in use. Is this not what it's for?

[RobB]

I thought those screws were there for when you change strings to hold the bridge in position. Is this not what it's for?

Yes, that's one of the benefits of the locking TOM design. The other is to eliminate any slop or acoustic rattle from bridge studs that aren't quite making contact. IMO, this makes more sense is more beneficial for the stop tailpiece studs, but having both is nice.

It certainly helped my Bigsby-ey Newport (Faber bridge) and '95 Standard (Tonepros TOM/aluminum TP). My LP, not so much but I did use the Faber aluminum TP/studs.

TonePros make good stuff. I especially like their replacement Klusons. I use them on all my Gibsons because I HATE the short-assed posts Gibson uses on their guitars.

Christ! I'm starting to sound like JohnnyB..!

[Feynman]

If you are as mechanically inclined as I am, you should just buy a new bridge.

[atquinn]

If you are as mechanically inclined as I am, you should just buy a new bridge.

Ah, but it's a bigger problem than that. Since the bass side of the TOM is currently locked-in; how would I remove the current bridge. I actually have Tonepros TOM in my parts box from the Monaco Elite I briefly had (the saddles were weirdly notched, so I got a new bridge). So if it was as easy as replacing the bridge or grub screw, I would have already done it.

-

Austin

[Studio Custom]

Hacksaw blade.

[triodecr]

Definitely consider getting a piece of leather or thick vinyl to protect the guitar while cutting the TOM post. You can cut out a hole to let the TOM come through while the rest of the leather/vinyl covers the guitar top. You could then use a hacksaw blade or Dremel with cut off wheel (if you feel comfortable) to cut off the bass side TOM post off.

[velorush]

I've got a set of ease outs.

They are really (REALLY) hardened, reverse threaded screws that screw into any sort of orifice you can find in what's left of your screw. As you tighten these down (the wrong way), they bite into the broken screw and twist it out. Got them at Lowes, but you can pick them up at Sears or just about any auto parts store. They've saved my butt more than a few times!

And stop wrenching on those tiny screws so hard!

[atquinn]

I've got a set of ease outs.

They are really (REALLY) hardened, reverse threaded screws that screw into any sort of orifice you can find in what's left of your screw. As you tighten these down (the wrong way), they bite into the broken screw and twist it out. Got them at Lowes, but you can pick them up at Sears or just about any auto parts store. They've saved my butt more than a few times!

And stop wrenching on those tiny screws so hard!

Nice! I'll have to try and get a set!

And I'm really not wrenching on the screws that hard. It just turns out that occasionally my freakish strength is more of a curse than a blessing. Or something.

-

Austin

[anotherfreak]

If the treble side is ok, couldn't you take out the treble side post and then spin-out the whole thing on the bass side post? Then you could have an easier time drilling out the screw?

[atquinn]

If the treble side is ok, couldn't you take out the treble side post and then spin-out the whole thing on the bass side post? Then you could have an easier time drilling out the screw?

I think you might be right.

-

Austin

[bcsride]

So, I decided to tweak my guitars a little this weekend (except the Daytona, which is perfect). I tweaked the truss rod and the action a bit on the Blue Stuidio Custom and then I was locking the tonespros bridge down...

...I think you might know where this is going...

...yes, that's right! I was tightening the bass side down when, pop! I felt the grub screw snap. The good news is everything is dialed in great, so I don't really have to do anything about it right now. But say I did want to adjust the TOM at some point down the line. How the hell do I get that grub screw out of there when it's snapped in half? I have all sorts of half-baked ideas, but I thought I'd consult the experts before I break something else!

-

Austin

All the above replies are wrong. The guitar is completely ruined. You should sell it to me as a "project" at a deeply discounted price.

[LordOfTheThighs]

If the treble side is ok, couldn't you take out the treble side post and then spin-out the whole thing on the bass side post? Then you could have an easier time drilling out the screw?

I think this sounds like a good idea.

You may have to pull the bridge pup also, so you can spin the bridge off.

The screw in the bridge is pretty small. Having worked in a machine shop for some years, I've

seen a few tricks to getting broken screws out. The easy-outs are a good starting point. You really need

to drill a small starter hole in the broken screw, for the easy-out to go in. Again, the broken screw is pretty

small to start with, so that may not be possible.

I've run a drill bit backwards, slowly, and sometimes it'll bite and break the screw loose.

You may have to take a punch, and drive the post out of the bridge, but it will surely scar

the post. But it'd be concealed when you reassemble it, or just get a new post.

OR, take it to a machine shop with a EDM RAM, and they could burn the screw out, without

damaging the bridge or post, if they did it right. But it'd be a few $$$$. Cheaper to just buy a one probably.

OR you could tighten it up in padded vice, and try to drill the broken screw out by hand, but

that'd be dicey. You'd be lucky not to hurt the threads. A shop could do with a mill / drill press, and a machine vice.

Good luck.

And BTW .....

Stop wrenching on those tiny screws so hard!

[XTQuilt]

""I've run a drill bit backwards, slowly, and sometimes it'll bite and break the screw loose.""

Or,use a left hand twist drill bit. Yep,they make 'em. But they only work below the equator... jk

[anotherfreak]

WELL????????

[atquinn]

Well, like I said, it's' dialed in how I want it, so I'm not going to be screwing with anything on it anytime soon. Maybe the next time I change the strings, but I'm pretty lazy, so maybe not

-

Austin