Soldering Station

[atquinn]

O.k., it's time to get serious. What soldering station should I get for doing guitar electronics only. Something less than $150 (alot less would be cool ). I'm assuming a Weller something-or-other, but I need something specific.

-Austin

[Bloozguy]

I use a Metcal SP200 system:

They use interchangeable tip/heater cartridges that come in 3 different wattages and a couple of dozen different tip styles plus an auto sleep stand that shuts the iron down when you replace it in the stand.

We use them at our shop and they're great to use and very reliable. Fairly expensive to buy new, but I got mine off Ebay for around $75 including a few tip cartridges.

[triodecr]

I have an Edsyn I got on ebay that works well.

I also heard about this place from a friend:

http://sra-solder.com/section.php/22/1

I've never done business with them so YMMV.

Clint

[Brewmaster]

My weapon of choice. Not expensive, excellent heat control, lots of different tips available.

http://www.tequipment.net/Hakko936-12.html

[unfun75]

My weapon of choice. Not expensive, excellent heat control, lots of different tips available.

http://www.tequipment.net/Hakko936-12.html

That's a good one.

[veatch]

I use a Weller WESD51 - more than $150 list, but street is more like $120 to $130. I think i got mine for around $105, but that was a while ago.

The Metcal's are great if you can get one used.

I've never tried the Hakko, but i would trust Brewie's judgment.

Whatever you get, i would highly recommend something with temp control. You'll need something that can adjust the temp up for soldering ground wires onto pots and trem claws and such, but you can dial down for the reg'lar wiring work.

Just my opinion.

[atquinn]

...Whatever you get, i would highly recommend something with temp control. You'll need something that can adjust the temp up for soldering ground wires onto pots and trem claws and such, but you can dial down for the reg'lar wiring work...

Yes, that's why I'm upgrading. The cheesey Radio shack iron I have is fine for attaching leads to terminals, but it's painful for soldering to pots. It looks like I've got plenty of options to investigate, thanks guys.

-Austin

[Bloozguy]

One more to add to the confusion :

OK International is the parent company of Metcal and they also make great industrial quality soldering equipment.

Between Hakko, Metcal and OK you've pretty much got the electronics manufacturing industry covered.

[Lockbody]

I've had a Weller 8200 gun for about 20yrs now. Not low wattage enough for delicate work like amp insides (although I've made due before), but for pickups, speakers, and especially pots, it makes for short work. Less than forty bux.

[Jason01]

My weapon of choice. Not expensive, excellent heat control, lots of different tips available.

http://www.tequipment.net/Hakko936-12.html

Thats the one I'd recommend as well.

[DaveH]

I've had a Weller 8200 gun for about 20yrs now. Not low wattage enough for delicate work like amp insides (although I've made due before), but for pickups, speakers, and especially pots, it makes for short work. Less than forty bux.

You shouldn't use a gun for pickups. The magnetic field they generate can weaken a pup's magnets.

[murkat]

the best deal on the planet bar none.

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7307

and if do not like that one, too cheap for you? buy a higher priced one. (silly)

I love mine, zero problems going on 4 years now.

[Lockbody]

I've had a Weller 8200 gun for about 20yrs now. Not low wattage enough for delicate work like amp insides (although I've made due before), but for pickups, speakers, and especially pots, it makes for short work. Less than forty bux.

You shouldn't use a gun for pickups. The magnetic field they generate can weaken a pup's magnets.

Well, that's something I didn't know, thanks. After reading up on soldering guns, seems I've been pretty lucky over the years.

[Lockbody]

the best deal on the planet bar none.

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7307

and if do not like that one, too cheap for you? buy a higher priced one. (silly)

I love mine, zero problems going on 4 years now.

Thanks to DaveH and Murkat I've got one of these on the way.

[LostArt]

bought a weller almost 20 years ago

no need for anything else

[whiskeyzulu]

I have the Hakko 936, its a great station - well built, reliable and heats up lickity split.

[atquinn]

the best deal on the planet bar none.

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7307

and if do not like that one, too cheap for you? buy a higher priced one. (silly)

I love mine, zero problems going on 4 years now.

Cool. I have my eye on an auction for a new Hakko 936, but I'll pick up won of these if the price gets too high on the Hakko.

One question? These variable units seem to display the temp, but I'm used to thinking in terms of wattage. What temp setting to you use for various tasks (I'm basically just soldering to backs of pots and to the pot terminals)?

-Austin

[Brewmaster]

the best deal on the planet bar none.

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7307

and if do not like that one, too cheap for you? buy a higher priced one. (silly)

I love mine, zero problems going on 4 years now.

Cool. I have my eye on an auction for a new Hakko 936, but I'll pick up won of these if the price gets too high on the Hakko.

One question? These variable units seem to display the temp, but I'm used to thinking in terms of wattage. What temp setting to you use for various tasks (I'm basically just soldering to backs of pots and to the pot terminals)?

-Austin

First off, the tip is as important as the temp. Each unit is a little different as far as accuracy of the temperature. Tin the tip and the work if possible. When possible, prep the surface as well with a light sanding with something like emory paper on the spot you want solder. This is big for grounds in Fender amps in particular.

For pots, use a chisel tip and temp about 750. You will get to know your unit (oops, I said unit) so that when your target heats up quick enough to melt the solder for a solid joint, you got it.

Heat it up quick, lay down the solder and get out. Don't worry about the wattage, focus on the temperature. Same for de-soldering. Get the iron hot enough to melt the solder quickly, get the solder out and be done before excess heat damages the part. Use heat sinks, like alligator clips. where possible to further protect your parts.

Edited to add....you will get a nice shiny joint when done correctly. And, BTW, I hate that lead free solder.

Refuse to use it in any of my amps. I had an amp from a fairly well known builder come in and the thing was a disaster. Cold joints all over. They were crumbling and falling apart. what wasn't crumbling was milky, cloudy looking. I had to re-solder the whole board. JMHO,YMMV

[Bloozguy]

One question? These variable units seem to display the temp, but I'm used to thinking in terms of wattage. What temp setting to you use for various tasks (I'm basically just soldering to backs of pots and to the pot terminals)?

The Metcal units have 3 different temp ratings for their tip cartidges. Roughly 500, 600 and 700 degrees Fahrenheit. 500 for fine work like the winding wires on a pickup. 600 for general purpose work. 700 for things like speaker terminals and the backs of pots. You could use those numbers for a variable temperature system as well. It won't take you long to get the hang of what heat fits what application.

[Brewmaster]

One question? These variable units seem to display the temp, but I'm used to thinking in terms of wattage. What temp setting to you use for various tasks (I'm basically just soldering to backs of pots and to the pot terminals)?

The Metcal units have 3 different temp ratings for their tip cartidges. Roughly 500, 600 and 700 degrees Fahrenheit. 500 for fine work like the winding wires on a pickup. 600 for general purpose work. 700 for things like speaker terminals and the backs of pots. You could use those numbers for a variable temperature system as well. It won't take you long to get the hang of what heat fits what application.

This is similar to my experience with the Hakko + - 50 degrees. Although I like to use 650-700 for wiring up a turrent board on an amp. I get really nice, shiny, volcano shaped solder joints on the top of the turret.

[atquinn]

Cool, thanks for the pointers guys. I'm able to get around with the cheezy iron I have now, but I get so little time to play and work on my guitars nowadays that I'm trying to overhaul my tools to allow me to work more efficiently.

-Austin

[gregc]

Weller or Hako, with temp control.

[whiskeyzulu]

One question? These variable units seem to display the temp, but I'm used to thinking in terms of wattage. What temp setting to you use for various tasks (I'm basically just soldering to backs of pots and to the pot terminals)?

-Austin

I set mine at 650 - which works great on PC boards and pots. I also picked up wonder ultra clear solder from a Staten Island ebayer named "stinky" - its ez to work with and flows really well (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400150328626&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_643wt_907)

You can always save some dough and take a quick drive to borrow my Hakko, but you gotta bring one of those ebony board studios

[Brewmaster]

a Staten Island ebayer named "stinky" -

I lived on Staten Island for 10 years, "Stinky" is very apropos.

Sorry I couldn't help myself...............

[cswilder]

I have the Hakko 936, its a great station - well built, reliable and heats up lickity split.

I've also been rocking the 936 for about 10 years and still on my first tip.

[singlehum]

My weapon of choice. Not expensive, excellent heat control, lots of different tips available.

http://www.tequipment.net/Hakko936-12.html

That's a good one.

I'm in the market for a good soldering station. I see that the 936 has been replaced with a newer model. Should I be possibly be wary of the newer one and try to find the original 936?