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Not sure about the 22 (I had the OG 60 watt), but originally the tube sockets were chassis-mounted. I can't imagine they'd change the entire topology just to make it a 6V6 amp. Here's a screen shot of a Psionic Audio (fantastic guy and YouTube channel) resurrecting a Supersonic from three years ago:

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What did it sell for in the original auction of Steve Vai's stuff?

You can text the pics to me. I can reduce them for you. PM for my # if you want to.

You forgot the ninety-eight cents.

Steve Vai's 1986 Hamer JEM Prototype "Monkey Grip Guitar" incl. Signed Letter of Authenticity - Pre Ibanez Offered at $41,353 - this has to be the most expensive Hamer I ever saw. https://reverb.com/item/79226132-steve-vai-s-1986-hamer-jem-prototype-monkey-grip-guitar-incl-signed-letter-of-authenticity-pre-ibanez-collector-alert Attention Steve Vai JEM enthusiasts and collectors. Offered here is the 1986 Hamer USA “Monkey Grip Guitar” prototype, a remarkable piece of JEM history. This guitar was built by Hamer USA during Steve Vai's search for a guitar maker to realize his JEM concept, based on Vai's specifications and design ideas. The guitar is accompanied by a signed Letter of Authenticity from Steve Vai, as well as a photograph of Vai holding this exact guitar, providing exceptional provenance for this unique instrument. Details: 1986 Hamer USA JEM prototype / “Monkey Grip Guitar” Built during the early development of the JEM concept Signed Letter of Authenticity from Steve Vai Original photograph of Steve Vai holding this guitar Ibanez pink-lined hard case, numbered “Vai 81” Available for pickup in London or Amsterdam International insured shipping available — please contact me before purchasing so I can provide an exact shipping quote Face-to-face delivery can also be discussed A genuinely rare opportunity to own a piece of JEM history, from the period when the concept was still being developed.

If your tube socket is broken away from the PC board there may be other issues like broken tracings. Much harder to repair. A socket installed into the chassis is far superior and much easier to replace. If it's PC mounted and the tracings aren't damaged, just get some wicket and remove the existing solder. (After you've drained the amp and tested with a DMM that you actually did drain the amp) then carefully lift the socket while hitting the inserts with a soldering iron as to not tear away the tabs. Slowly!! And carefully! Clean the area with alchohol and inspect with magnification to insure the PC is intact. Then reinsert the new one and solder. Done https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019V5MAC?ref_=icdp_ba_mweb_mb_pd_bap_m_grid_rp_0_20_gf&clientRefMarker=pd_bap_m_grid_rp_0_20_gf&heartsTeamIdentifier=buyagain&psc=1&heartDisabled=false

Socket is soldered on the PCBA and not riveted to the chassis?

This is probably a good time to divulge that I am actually an exiled Nigerian prince. Great political unrest put my family in danger and forced me to leave my homeland. If you would be so kind as to assist me, I would like to transfer $1.5 million U.S. to your account so that I might bring my family safely to... ....aw, Hell. Just kidding. I hate grifters.

That sub-octave on the bend at 1:41 caught me off guard. Also, I don't listen to much hard rock like this, but I've gotta give these guys there props; they slayed.

My LP Zen has never struck me as noisy. The Warm is really very similar. I think the Warm has a little more gain, but other than that I don't really think there's a dimes worth of difference. Price, however, is definitely "different". I'm not sure how the "Black Magic" differs from the standard Zen from LP. If you don't like it, I'll refund you. But you have to pay to ship it back.

Like a stripper in Thailand, You want it but you can't have it.

Please check PM

I'm always harder than the next guy. Just ask Rufus.

Can you text them to me? I can resize them for you.

It's certainly a spy-vs-spy situtation, if you remember the Mad magazine cartoon. If you don't, it's alternating advances in offense and defense. I like analogies, and since security has multiple applications, here are a couple: When hiking in bear country, make sure you can outrun at least one of the folks you're with - you can't outrun the bear, but if you outrun someone else, the bear might not pass them up and come for you. And I've had a couple of experiences with the local cops addressing a community group about Neighborhood Watch, and both times it came down to this, very roughly paraphrased: Criminals gonna crime. What you wanna do is make your neighborhood so obviously nosy that the criminals say "forget this place, I'mma go on down the road". The general idea is to be a harder target than some or many, and you'll be less likely to be the victim. But there will always be victims.

Socket. Not retainer. pics too big for this site

I worked on my OG 60w SuperSonic and other than being PC board, it had an extremely intuitive layout. Pictures are your friend (so long as you aren't colorblind 😉). I found this schematic Fender-Super-Sonic-22-Schematic.pdf if you're into that sort of thing, but the simplest tact is to go pin-for-pin. Google AI spit out this pinout: 6V6 Power Tube Socket Pinout Pin 1: Internal connection / Empty (No Connection) Pin 2: Heater / Filament (heater AC) Pin 3: Plate (Anode, High Voltage B+) Pin 4: Screen Grid (Grid 2) Pin 5: Control Grid (Grid 1) Pin 6: Empty / No Connection Pin 7: Heater / Filament (heater AC) Pin 8: Cathode / Suppressor Grid (K / G3) Hope this helps. Absolutely loved my SuperSonic, it was just extremely loud and too heavy for what I was doing. At one point I installed 6V6s (in place of the 6L6s - they were JJs and could handle the higher plate voltage) with a re-bias, of course. If it was any less loud, I couldn't tell. Always wanted to check out the 22w. ETA: I am really sorry. I just went back and reread the OP and saw that you're asking about V1. I am really sorry for the confusing junk, above.

Lawyers....

... and is vegan and sells Amway on the weekends. (do they still exist?)

Pics of the outside and inside would help establish whether it's easy or requires experience. To be clear, "tube socket" is the multi-hole piece the multipin tube plugs into. The "tube case" is a simple metal cylinder with a spring inside. It acts as a tube retainer and heatsink more than as a shield. It is optional, and if that's what's damaged, after straightening the tube pins, you might not need to touch anything, or maybe just a new 12ax7. But, pics, please!

Doesn't sound like you are a dumbass but read up or watch videos about how to discharge the electrolytic caps. Those will kill you like you have it plugged in the wall and throw it in the bathtub while giving yourself a man-scape. ETA: include me in your will just in case. ETAA: @Dutchman is the man to ask. Great guy and quite the amp guru. ETAAA: Read up on Prop 65 just in case.

I say drain the voltage and give it a go! After you drain the voltage, make sure you've drained the voltage! After that, test to make sure there's no voltage left in the chassis.

Imagine then, if you will: Someone who plays death metal by night But does Crossfit by day!