Basic Set Up Tools

[Ted]

Hi HFCers,

What tools would you recommend to do proper Set Ups?

Thanks in advance, Ted U

[tobereeno]

small phillips screwdriver. T-handle socket truss rod wrench. hex wrenches. ruler that measures to 1/64".

[triodecr]

I've found these tool to be very helpful for setups and finding high frets:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GIBSON-GUITAR-NECK-STRAIGHT-EDGE-Notched-LUTHIERS-TOOL-/260985027471?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item3cc3eb7b8f

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Guitar-Fret-Rocker-Level-Tool-Luthiers-Tool-/261068161486?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item3cc8e001ce

[Steve Haynie]

A good screwdriver, preferably one with a machined tip rather than a stamped tip, and a correct truss rod wrench are what you need.

Radius gauges are nice if you have adjustable height bridge saddles. The tools triodecr linked to are important, too. You can get away with using a capo on the first fret and holding down a string around the 15th to 17th fret to check neck relief.

If you want perfection, get all the tools suggested here. If you just want to get something knocked out as quickly as changing strings just go with the screwdriver.

[Ted]

A good screwdriver, preferably one with a machined tip rather than a stamped tip, and a correct truss rod wrench are what you need.

Radius gauges are nice if you have adjustable height bridge saddles. The tools triodecr linked to are important, too. You can get away with using a capo on the first fret and holding down a string around the 15th to 17th fret to check neck relief.

If you want perfection, get all the tools suggested here. If you just want to get something knocked out as quickly as changing strings just go with the screwdriver.

Steve, I will need the Radius Gauges for my Strat. I see that Stewart-Mac has a Set-Up "Bundle".

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Essential_Tool_Kits/Basic_Setup_Kit.html

Would it be more cost efficient to buy Triodecrs recommendations and search for a good deall on the radius gauges?

And, Thanks Tobereeno and Triodecr!

[Steve Haynie]

Stew-Mac charges more for their straight edge tool, and more for the one with notches for the frets. The one on eBay will save you a lot of money. If you know someone in a machine shop, find out what it will cost to put a perfectly straight edge on a piece of aluminum.

[DaveL]

a couple recommendations for basic maintenance

fret polish guards, I use with 0000 steel wool (4-5 bucks wal mart) just go lightly to remove the crud.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-4-Fretboard-Fret-Protector-Guards-for-Guitar-Bass-Luthier-Tool-/171566985614?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item27f230718e

F-one fretboard oil, works nice

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/music-nomad-fretboard-f-one-oil--cleaner-conditioner--2-oz./

I leave the fret dressing to the pros... however home depot sells a nice quality stainless steel 18" ruler/straight edge for 7 bucks. not

bad for checking neck relief.

[Spike]

I recently purchased the Fret Rocker that triodecr linked to and some fret protectors like the ones in DaveL's link. I knew I had some high frets on my beater but just wanted to verify before I drop the guitar off at my luthier for a fret dressing. The Fret Rocker works great and I would highly recommend it. I should probably pick up the straight edge that triodecr linked to as it looks like that would come in handy as well. I'll probably eventually do fret dressing myself but for now, like DaveL, I leave it to the pros.

I also find it handy to have some Gorgomyte on hand for those times that I need to clean the fretboard and polish the frets but don't need and/or don't have time to go the steel wool route.

http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Cleaners_and_Lubricants/Gorgomyte_Fretboard_Conditioning_Cloth.html

[G Man]

In addition to the above excellent advice, I find a good pair of dykes come in handy. I also like the little string winder ends that can be used with a cordless drill, makes for a very neat wind on the post. If you've got the $$ a strobe tuner for setting intonation. +1 on the Gorgomyte, I never find a need for the whole steal wool route. And my number one tool for doing set ups can be found most anywhere, a good set of +1.75 or higher cheaters/reading glasses.

[Ted]

a couple recommendations for basic maintenance

fret polish guards, I use with 0000 steel wool (4-5 bucks wal mart) just go lightly to remove the crud.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-4-Fretboard-Fret-Protector-Guards-for-Guitar-Bass-Luthier-Tool-/171566985614?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item27f230718e

F-one fretboard oil, works nice

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/music-nomad-fretboard-f-one-oil--cleaner-conditioner--2-oz./

I leave the fret dressing to the pros... however home depot sells a nice quality stainless steel 18" ruler/straight edge for 7 bucks. not

bad for checking neck relief.

Thanks Dave.

Any suggestions for fretboard radius guides besides SteMacs?

[Hbom]

You might try these. They look the same and save about 10 bucks. I've never used them but they seem to have a good rep on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Understring-radius-gauge-for-guitar-and-bass-setup-Set-of-9-Luthier-tools-/111503813920?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item19f6252d20

Another from the bay that has SM tools at a small discount.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Luthier-Tools-32-Piece-Feeler-Gauges-9-Piece-Understring-Radius-Gauges-/321633720546?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item4ae2dd18e2

[Caddie]

a really, really high quality tuner.

Cheers!

caddie

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

Under string radius gauges are around $20 on amazon so f*** Stewmac & their over-inflated prices (and yes, I have an account with Stewmac)! I get most my tools from the USA as even witrh import tax, it's less expensive than buying in Europe. I have most of the tools mentioned on this post as I just started my own guitar repair business [ Christian Guitars ] but I still need more tools (esp a fret-press tool). Great thread

[Toadroller]

If you're going to be doing fretwork, get a set of fret nippers, a fretting hammer, a set of files (triangular) and a used woodworking plane. Here in New England, you can get them for $20 at any antique shop.

And be sure to have a couple of junk necks sourced from junk guitars to practice on. I've done two - four fret jobs so far, on junkers, and am at the point where I'd be willing to do attempt on on one of my decent guitars.

Incredible lessons to be learned from this series:

[Uncle Thor's Hamer]

The FretGuru tool is excellent. Way better than using feeler gauges to measure or set string height. It has many uses.

http://store.fretguru.com/shop/fretguru-precision-setup-and-evaluation-gauge/

A set of nut slotting files will make it so much easier than trying to use cheapo files. If you'll be doing more than one guitar it is worth getting good files. Get the good ones from StewMac. Yes they cost more but they are far better than the flexible ones.

Fret files, crowning and end files, are quite helpful but a bit of a luxury. You can use a good triangular fret file to recrown frets after you've levelled them. The edges of the triangle are ground off smooth so they don't gouge the fretboard. Blue masking tape on the wood works well to protect it.

I use the polishing pads to polish frets. No need for the metal fretboard protectors, just use blue tape. A dremel with polishing wheel and rouge works great but is a bit messy.

To level frets you can spot level with a regular fret file. There is a wide variety of preferences and products out there. I like using a sanding beam with good sandpaper (not from Home Depot), but a good file works fine too. Lots of choices. Grind off the edges of the file so it won't scrape anything up by accident.

A long truly straight edge is nice but not necessary. You have to adjust the truss rod to get the neck as straight as possible before using the straight edge. Eyeballs, a fret rocker, and carefully playing each string at each fret should be good enough to identify minor fret issues. If you have a bunch of really worn frets it gets to be a bigger job and you might want that straight edge and a sanding beam.

[Duplex Dave]

It was mentioned above by Uncle Thor, but make sure you have plenty of blue painters tape around (3M). Tape off the top of your guitar on either side of the finger board, and especially tape over the pickups if you are using steel wool. It sucks trying to get steel wool off pickups, especially if they are chrome covered. A large 4" cheap paintbrush is handy to brush of sanding dust, steel wool, ect. if you don't have compressed air.

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

I place a small magnet inside my steel wool when polishing frets

[Ted]

a really, really high quality tuner.

Cheers!

caddie

Caddie,

Do you have any recomendations for a high quality tuner that also has Buzz Feiten tuning capability?

[G Man]

I place a small magnet inside my steel wool when polishing frets

That's feckin' brilliant man. Why have I not heard of this little trick before?

I use gorgomyte, so I am not sure I will ever use this trick, but brilliant all the same.

[Uncle Thor's Hamer]

a really, really high quality tuner.

Cheers!

caddie

Caddie,

Do you have any recomendations for a high quality tuner that also has Buzz Feiten tuning capability?

Korg DT-7

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

I place a small magnet inside my steel wool when polishing frets

That's feckin' brilliant man. Why have I not heard of this little trick before?

I use gorgomyte, so I am not sure I will ever use this trick, but brilliant all the same.

See, I recently started my own guitar repair business and I have this neck/frets to sort out! Anyways, I'm off to grab some steel-wool & I see this smashed to pieces ring-magnet I put aside months ago. I don't know why I saved it = maybe because it was curved (I dunno). Anyways... looking at the neck I'd just oiled, I saw the steel-wool dust on the neck & thought = this sucks! Then, I just put 2 + 2 together It doesn't have to be a super-strong magnet and it doesn't have to be big (mine's about 15mm x 5mm) and it also gives your steel-wool some rigidity = great for that final fret polish

[Toadroller]

While the traditional approach for fret leveling is a radiused sanding block, I've found that a medium-length woodworking plane (with the blade removed, natch) with sand-paper on it works fine. Cheaper, too.

Call it a cheap trick.

[Ted]

a really, really high quality tuner.

Cheers!

caddie

Caddie,

Do you have any recomendations for a high quality tuner that also has Buzz Feiten tuning capability?

Korg DT-7

Thor, What makes a Tuner capable for doing set ups? I have researched Tuners for Set Ups and the Peterson Strobe Tuners come up a lot.

[Uncle Thor's Hamer]

a really, really high quality tuner.

Cheers!

caddie

Caddie,

Do you have any recomendations for a high quality tuner that also has Buzz Feiten tuning capability?

Korg DT-7

Thor, What makes a Tuner capable for doing set ups? I have researched Tuners for Set Ups and the Peterson Strobe Tuners come up a lot.

The strobe tuners seem to be the gold standard. The little bit I played with one, I didn't really like it for just tuning my guitar. So I can't say the strobe is good or bad for doing setups. The Korg DT-7 has the Buzz Feiten offsets. I like those for just regular every day tuning. This particular model has setting for 12th fret, which is really nice for setting the intonation. Any really accurate tuner would work.

Strings seem to vary in pitch as they vibrate when plucked. The Korg is fairly quick to react, showing those variations. I think what would make a tuner poor for doing setups is one which reacts slowly and which has a low resolution. Something which shows to 1ct is what I'd look for, and the Korg can be interpreted that closely.

Guitars are never in perfect tune everywhere, are they? In my limited experience it seems the nut height is quite critical in getting good intonation. Getting the frets nice and level so the overal action can be as low as possible for the player's style is critical. The tuner to set the intonation on the adjustable bridge is, in my opinion, not nearly so critical as good ears and new strings. Maybe if I had a Petersen strobe my opinion would be different.