Recommend Some Bass Strings (Por Favor)

[velorush]

I've been playing (at) bass for three or four years now. I started out with the '97 Deluxe PBass I've posted about here and it's been great fun and I've learned a great deal. Thanks to a great deal of assistance and learned advice from JohnnyB and others, I loaded the Fender with a set of Ken Smith Compression Wound Strings .105 - .044.

Last Halloween I bought the '82 Cruisebass (also posted about here). It came loaded with what I would describe as really heavy guitar strings - very very small (for bass) roundwound strings of unknown origin. The only other strings I had in the house were the (larger) roundwound strings that were on the Fender bass when I bought it, so I put them on there. They're old, but the flat spots from fretting are in a different spot due to the differences in the bass.

So, here's the question: what would you put on here? I'm not gigging presently, but would like to put strings on that were worthy of such. I like to play every imaginable style of music (and likely would, given the opportunity). I'd like for this to be somehow different from the Fender, but given the Fender is active and the Cruise has these great DiMarzios in it, I don't think they'd be similar even with the same strings.

Lastly: the only thing I know about is that I've really liked the Ken Smith Compression Wound strings. Other than the worn out strings presently on the Cruise, I've tried nothing else for any extended period, so any suggestions/advice/stratagem you have will be very welcome.

[bcsride]

I use DR high beams - I like them. But, I haven’t ever done a shoot out. Post this on Talkbass (or search it there) as with all these types of questions, there is no “correct” choice only individual preference.

[velorush]

I am on TalkBass, but I tend to post more here - just more comfortable since I'm such a noob.

I suppose the more direct question is going to be one no one can answer: flats or rounds? My knee-jerk reaction is, round for RAWK (it's a CRUISE, after all), but a set of flats might be nice to try out, too (and lots of my favorite bass lines were recorded with flats).

This is the kind of thinking that led me to the compression wound compromise (of sorts).

[JohnnyB]

There are so many different ways you could go. I would take into account that the '80s Cruise is a setneck all-mahogany instrument. You could choose strings to either exploit that (go for the biggest, fullest sound possible) or counteract it (go for strings that counteract the warmth and woofiness of mahogany with some punch, clarity, and definition.

Well, here's a string that should do both. It uses alloy 52, which is 52% nickel and 48% iron. This is a warm, full-sounding alloy because it is so magnetic. OTOH, it's a taper core design, which means that the thick windings stop short of the bridge so the thinner core stretches over the bridge, giving more speed, definition, and clarity. Don't be afraid to experiment and swap strings. I have a piano bench full of strings I've tried out, and sometimes return to, as the mood hits me.

Another one of my favorites; they aren't cheap, but the coating keeps them from oxidizing for a l-o-o-o-o-ng time. Unlike most other coateds, these are pure nickel wrap, so again, they're warm yet retain definition and have a certain sweetness to their tone. They are also pretty fast and snap back to position quickly. Five years after I first got some, they're probably still my favorite strings for tone, comfort, playability, response, string-to-string and fret-to-fret consistent tonality, and long life.

[Tres Aardvarks]

I don't have much to add to Johnny's post, but I've always just used D'Addario standard roundwound. Then again, I've (almost) always gone for a straight ahead rock sound. My buddy who got back into bass wanted a different sound, as he prefers a big fat almost distorted bass tone (think Grand Funk "Got This Thing On The Move"). For him, I recommended Rotosound Flatwounds. He loves 'em.

[velorush]

See, that's what I'm trying to understand (and how this thread is helpful in trying to sort out): I have been equating round wounds with rock (RAWK) and flatwounds with mellow (Motown or jazz tones). I realize now that comes entirely from a guitarist's mindset and knowing nothing about bass. Steve Harris' signature strings are flatwounds for cryin' out loud (gee, I'd classify IM as RAWK)!

They're not that expensive (considering how long they last). Maybe I should just get a few different sets and see what happens!

[polara]

See, that's what I'm trying to understand (and how this thread is helpful in trying to sort out): I have been equating round wounds with rock (RAWK) and flatwounds with mellow (Motown or jazz tones). I realize now that comes entirely from a guitarist's mindset and knowing nothing about bass. Steve Harris' signature strings are flatwounds for cryin' out loud (gee, I'd classify IM as RAWK)!

They're not that expensive (considering how long they last). Maybe I should just get a few different sets and see what happens!

Yeah, I'd try a couple. I used to be GHS Boomers bassist but it kind of depends on if you want the bass to take the lead - think Chris Squire in the most extreme form - and use round wounds, or the bass as support - take James Jamerson - and go for flats. I have GHS tape wounds on my Veillete Citron fretless, for a real warm, thump old-school tone.

[gtone]

A lot of the young guys around here, my son included, favour the Rotosounds for tone and playability. While they sound great, there's a strong consensus that they don't last that long. Upside to that is that they're not a pricey option; downside is more frequent string changes, obviously...

[Tres Aardvarks]

See, that's what I'm trying to understand (and how this thread is helpful in trying to sort out): I have been equating round wounds with rock (RAWK) and flatwounds with mellow (Motown or jazz tones). I realize now that comes entirely from a guitarist's mindset and knowing nothing about bass. Steve Harris' signature strings are flatwounds for cryin' out loud (gee, I'd classify IM as RAWK)!

They're not that expensive (considering how long they last). Maybe I should just get a few different sets and see what happens!

I second experimenting..buy a couple sets, throw the first on, play the snot of out of it for a while and record some samples during their life...when they wear out, replace with set #2 and record samples of it through its life. Then you can can compare.

As for round vs flat, well, you can make ANYTHING work, but it may not be ideal. I have a fretless which has a plain wood fretboard (no glossy hard coating on the board). To get more of the electric fretless sound, I pretty much have to use roundwounds (which I use anyway). Want to make it sound more like an upright? Roll the tone down, play it differently and it's more of a thump thump. Steve Harris ATTACKS his strings, so it doesn't really matter that he's playing flats. Compare that to someone taking the "play it all gently, let the amp make it loud" approach. Most of the jazz bass players I listened to used rounds, not flats, even if they were also an acoustic bass player.

I'd say that the only consistent difference between flat and round is that with round you start out with a bit more bite and zing (and squeak), but that can be mitigated by your playing style.

[mc2]

I grew up using pretty much any brand of bass strings that were on sale......

THEN, back in the mid-90s I tried out Dean Markley SR2000 strings. I have never gone back to another brand on my 4- or 5- string basses. Originally, I used the Will Lee gauge sets after Will explained the logic of having the same gauges in both sets....so you could steal a spare out of either set if you broke one.

Eventually, I ended up using Medium Lights or Lights....on my 80s Hamer Cruisebasses. Sound and play great!!

The basic things that makes SR2000 strings different:

1) the core, NOT the wrap, goes over the saddle....that allows better intonation and, theoretically, transfers tone/dynamics better.

2) they are made of stainless steel....last forever (despite my hand sweat that kills most brands) and I Love the tone.

I use these with a can of FingerEase to clean them when I am done playing....makes them last an incredibly long time.

[Thundernotes]

I like the DR Sunbeams

[Cary]

I like a nice zing to my sound, and I've always liked/used Blue Steels or D'Addario XLs. The Blue Steels last longer, but they're also more expensive. (Strings.com is where I always bought mine when I was playing out).

[JohnnyB]

You can get that roundwound "Jaco" sound with GHS Compression or Ken Smith Compressors and they're easier on the fingerboard. You can also use a coated roundwound to similar effect.

The feature mc2 mentions about the SR2000s is also available on other bass strings designated as "taper core." mc2 likes stainless steel. You may like nickel-plated steel, pure nickel, or alloy 52 for their feel and/or tone instead (totally a matter of taste, music type, and system matching), but I'm pretty sure all alloys are available in taper core if you're interested. I think taper core is just about essential for the low B on a 5-string to enhance sustain and keep it from sounding thuddy. A std. low B is a very thick string where it runs over the saddle.

[killerteddybear]

DR Sunbeams (whatever the nickel ones are) for roundwounds. I used to use Rotosound Swing Bass, but they're a stainless steel string and I now find them overly bright.

La Bella Deep Talkin' Flats. Tried Tomastik-Infeld flats for a while but the La Bellas are better. Other flats didn't measure up.

Believe it or not, Carvin's cheap-assed bass strings are pretty good! One of the better string brands builds them OEM for Carvin.

[JohnnyB]

I didn't mention Thomastik-Infeld Flats because they're kind of a niche product. They're one of the few pure nickel wrap flatwounds and thus have a big lush tone. They're one of the best strings for a fretless semi- or fully-hollow-bodied if you're looking for an upright sound. They're also easy on the fingerboard of a fretless given that they're flat and nickel is relatively soft. They sound great, are comfortable to play, and last a long time, plenty long to justify the cost. However, they are low tension and therefore slow to snap back to position. They're fantastic if you want to sound like an upright and like a big lush tone as long as you don't try to play too fast. Of course, that could just be me. If you pluck closer to the bridge you get a quicker response, but you lose some of that blooming tone.

That's one reason I really like those Black Diamond Black Coated strings. They're also pure nickel wrap, and the coating makes them resist oxidation and is kinder to fretless boards. They have a big full sound. But unlike the TI Jazz Flats they are also quick enough to play a variety of styles. I think I'm talking myself into buying another set or two. My one set is on a Gretsch hollowbody that I have on consignment.

I know there are plenty of bassists who like Rotosounds, but I find them roughly finished compared to other brands I've tried.

[velorush]

Guys, I can't tell you how much I appreciate (and am enjoying) this conversation. Playing bass is really a new-found joy for me and it's great discovering all these nuances like the ones posted in this thread.

I've noticed faster passages seem to be easier on the Fender (Ken Smith Compression Wounds) than on the Cruise (unknown roundwounds) right now. There are so many variables between the two basses, however, the strings are definitely not the only component. The Fender is string-through-body whereas the Cruise is through-bridge, causing a difference in both string length and break angle. The strings obviously feel very different, as well.

I found on Talk-Bass last night the most incredible review of the GHS alloy 52 taper core strings. Definitely going to have to give them a try. I'll figure out at least one other alternate set and get an order in, hopefully today.

Thanks for all of the interesting comments!

[Ethan]

I've tried lots of stuff but I always seem to come back to D'Addario 50-105-they're cheap, consistently made, sound nice for just about everything, and I don't mind the sound of them when they're a little dead. I tried the Prosteels last year for a tour and while I thought they were cool, I missed the nice warm mids from the normal nickel steels. For flats I like the Chromes and the GHS flats, I'd like to try the Labella ones but I have had to leave my second bass tuned BEAD with rounds for some of the country and gospel-y stuff I have to play-I use Ernie Ball 5 string set for that, because that's all available local to me with a 135 B string.

[tbonesullivan]

I like Ernie Ball, D'Addario, and La Bella bass strings. Carvin branded bass strings are really Labella nickle plated steel strings, for a bunch cheaper.

[velorush]

I've tried lots of stuff but I always seem to come back to D'Addario 50-105-they're cheap, consistently made, sound nice for just about everything, and I don't mind the sound of them when they're a little dead. I tried the Prosteels last year for a tour and while I thought they were cool, I missed the nice warm mids from the normal nickel steels. For flats I like the Chromes and the GHS flats, I'd like to try the Labella ones but I have had to leave my second bass tuned BEAD with rounds for some of the country and gospel-y stuff I have to play-I use Ernie Ball 5 string set for that, because that's all available local to me with a 135 B string.

See, I'd love to try BEAD some time, but at this point playing bass is like trying to get a drink from a fire hose. All the theory / facility / experience on guitar (which by far isn't much compared to the fair ladies and gents on this board) is straining to be applied to bass, but hindered by the limitations of my still-developing technique.

[JohnnyB]

Bassstringsonline has a page where strings are categorized by type--roundwounds by type, flatwound, tapewound coated, pressure wound, taper core, etc. Although it doesn't have comprehensive discussions of each type, by surfing through the categories you can get an idea of what the various string types do in tone, output, and touch.

[Ethan]

I've tried lots of stuff but I always seem to come back to D'Addario 50-105-they're cheap, consistently made, sound nice for just about everything, and I don't mind the sound of them when they're a little dead. I tried the Prosteels last year for a tour and while I thought they were cool, I missed the nice warm mids from the normal nickel steels. For flats I like the Chromes and the GHS flats, I'd like to try the Labella ones but I have had to leave my second bass tuned BEAD with rounds for some of the country and gospel-y stuff I have to play-I use Ernie Ball 5 string set for that, because that's all available local to me with a 135 B string.

See, I'd love to try BEAD some time, but at this point playing bass is like trying to get a drink from a fire hose. All the theory / facility / experience on guitar (which by far isn't much compared to the fair ladies and gents on this board) is straining to be applied to bass, but hindered by the limitations of my still-developing technique.

I hear ya-it's not much different to me technique wise as long as you get the right string gauge and setup, because theoretically the tension doesn't increase that much more. It's fun because it gives you more options-even if you don't hit the extra low notes all the time, now you have a whole range of notes that sound different from what you had before (ie a fretted low E instead of just the open one). If you get a chance, try it out-it took me a while to wrap my head around it, but I really do like it for certain things. To me, playing bass well is all about note choices, subtle tone and attack differences that fit the song and mood the best rather than straight up technique, so it's a nice thing to have in the wheelhouse.

[JohnnyB]

... Don't be afraid to experiment and swap strings. I have a piano bench full of strings I've tried out, and sometimes return to, as the mood hits me.

I just checked my piano bench, and WOW! I bought a lot of strings when I first got into bass 5 yrs ago. I have GHS tapewounds (great), Rotosound tapewounds (tubby), DR flatwounds (I'll have to try them again), TI jazz flats (great tone, slow response), coated strings including some orange ones (should look great on my black Guild Pilot Pro), and so many more it's embarrassing. I am short on energy and extra time, but I will try to string a few of these up and give some tone reports. I'm interested to see how the DR Flats fare on the Guild Pilot Fretless to see if I can get more of an upright sound since I'm consigning the fabulous sounding (but not so ergonomic for me) G&L ASAT semihollow fretless.

The one string type I'm interested in that I don't have, however, is that GHS alloy 52 "BIg Core" taper core. I may have to get a set of those; I'll bet it really rocks on the Pilot Pro, which is a very clean, articulate-sounding bass.

[Tres Aardvarks]

... Don't be afraid to experiment and swap strings. I have a piano bench full of strings I've tried out, and sometimes return to, as the mood hits me.

I am short on energy and extra time, but I will try to string a few of these up and give some tone reports.

Damn! You're good people, Johnny B!

[Bass Guy Dave]

I used to play my natural '82 Cruise with a steel drum band in college (one of the funnest gigs I've ever had...) I'd use D'addario Chromes flatwounds (forgot the gauge,) with the stock pickups and seemed to work well.

I stuck a set of Warwick stainless steel roundwound (.40-.105 I think) on it about 12 years ago and haven't changed 'em since (the low E was kinda' dead when I put 'em on, but the other strings still sound great, oddly enough. Got the strings as a freebie sample from a rep, while I was still working music retail. I'd try another set if I knew for sure what they were, lol... Never had strings last THAT long before!

If I could afford to be picky (which was rare,) I'd usually use 40-60-80-100 and stainless. I liked D'addario XLs for years, as they were the most consistent thing I could find. Ernie Ball and GHS weren't bad, but D'addarios packaging at the time would let the strings keep longer... now everybody uses pretty similar packaging, so I don't know how much difference there may be these days.

Used a fair amount of DR, preferring the Hi-Beams to the Lo-Riders slightly. Again, Stainless over nickel, as the brightness would last longer--though rougher on the fingers. If you don't like the zing and sparkle, then half-rounds or flats may be the way for you. I liked the DR--just found 'em a bit expensive.

I'd tried the GHS contact-core for a while on my 2-TEK, which was super-zingy and clear. Took a BIG adjustment on the string saddles though, to get the bass set up for those. I'd also tried the Trace-elliot branded strings for a bit while they were out. They also used a taper-core design, but not straight to the core, like the GHS did. Again, not bad strings.

Real-world-- last set of bass strings I bought was in 2008 and they were D'addario XL 220s (40-95) in the 2 pack, to keep the cost down as much as possible. (bought 'em and put one set on my EBMM Sterling in 2008 and the other set in 2012 on my old Peavey Fury bass i had just got back from a 16 year loan to a friend...)

Guess I need to buy more bass stings now, lol. Eagerly awaiting Johnny B's insights!

[velorush]

Four months? I move like a glacier! Actually, not playing with anyone pulls any sense of urgency from this sort of thing.

Finally bought a set of these:

Suddenly the Cruisebass is a piano! I put them on last night, tuned it to pitch and played around a bit. They are incredibly bright compared to the dead strings they replaced (like, tone control on 2 kind of bright) and it really needs to be set up for the change in tension. I'll let the whole thing sit a few days to stabilize and then give it a go.

The principal question in that endeavor is: will I remember to replace the TRUSS ROD COVER?

[ZR]

I have an '86 Cruisebass but don't consider myself a bass player except adding parts to my own songs etc. and playing Detroit rock City (love that bass part), under pressure, theme from Night Court TV show, another one bites the dust ...

So, for whatever it's worth I play Rotosound Swing Bass 66 45-105