Les Paul Tuning Stability Trick

[LucSulla]

I saw this a couple of years ago and finally gave it a try. 
 

For some reason, I haven't really gigged any Lesters in a long time. The 2013 Traditional I have in particular has a really nasty problem with string pinch in the nut making tuning stability crap. I've worked and worked on the back angle and all that jazz to limited success. 

Gave this a shot, and I will be dipped in shit - no issues all night. 

[cmatthes]

Restringing my Les Pauls ASAP...

[LucSulla]

5 minutes ago, cmatthes said:

Restringing my Les Pauls ASAP...

I'll be interested to hear if it helps you as well. With just one data point, it may have just been coincidence, but I've definitely never had less trouble out of the D and G strings on that guitar. 

[hamerhead]

I hope that works. Here's an alternative:

My LPC would NOT stay in tune - for years I fought that f***er - until I began gigging regularly again and figured out that you can triple-lock the string on the post and your tuning will be bullet-proof:

Pull the string thru the post, then push it back about an inch.

Kink the string inwards on the post.

Wrap the end of the string inwards around the post and under itself.

Bend the string - tightly - up over itself and kink it again.

* Be sure to keep everything tight as you go*.

Tune to pitch as usual.

ETA: Give 2 quick pulls on each string at the 12th fret.

Re-tune.

You have 2 kinks and the string tightening over itself to lock it on the post. Triple lock. It cannot slip.

Any tuning issues after that will be in some other area.

Good luck.

Edited March 10 by hamerhead

[Dave Scepter]

41 minutes ago, hamerhead said:

Pull the string thru the post, then push it back about an inch.

Kink the string inwards on the post.

Wrap the string inwards around the post and under itself.

Bend the string - tightly - over itself and kink it again.

* Be sure to keep everything tight as you go*.

Tune to pitch as usual.

You have 2 kinks and the string tightening over itself to lock it on the post. Triple lock. It cannot slip.

Like this?🤣

 

Edited March 10 by Dave Scepter

[hamerhead]

Um....no....

[scottcald]

Seems like some locking tuners with taller G and D would do that.   Wonder if someone will come out with that?

[RobB]

1 hour ago, scottcald said:

Seems like some locking tuners with taller G and D would do that.   Wonder if someone will come out with that?

Gotoh makes those. Look for, "HAPM", in the product description. They are height-adjustable AND locking. The treble posts even have smaller post-holes. Their Kluson-types for Strats are great, too. 

[LucSulla]

4 hours ago, hamerhead said:

I hope that works. Here's an alternative:

My LPC would NOT stay in tune - for years I fought that f***er - until I began gigging regularly again and figured out that you can triple-lock the string on the post and your tuning will be bullet-proof:

Pull the string thru the post, then push it back about an inch.

Kink the string inwards on the post.

Wrap the end of the string inwards around the post and under itself.

Bend the string - tightly - over itself and kink it again.

* Be sure to keep everything tight as you go*.

Tune to pitch as usual.

ETA: Give 2 quick pulls on each string at the 12th fret.

Re-tune.

You have 2 kinks and the string tightening over itself to lock it on the post. Triple lock. It cannot slip.

Any tuning issues after that will be in some other area.

Good luck.

I think you forgot the step where you do the hokey pokey and turn yourself around 😛 

In all seriousness, I've never had an issue with slack at the post. It's always been the break angle at the back of the nut catching it. Stringing it going up the point relieves just enough pressure that it doesn't seem to bind nearly as much. 

@murkat gave me the best advice years ago - just use nylon nuts like they did originally. I'm a big fan of the 2013-2019 Les Paul traditionals and have owned 3. In 2013, they were using Corian nuts. In 2017, they used nylon. The 2017 never has issues; the 2013 does. 

[velorush]

This video came out around the time I was changing strings on my Lester (couple of years ago). I tried it and have been doing it this way ever since. I have plenty of break angle at the nut and the tuning is much more stable.

[hamerhead]

8 hours ago, LucSulla said:

I think you forgot the step where you do the hokey pokey and turn yourself around 😛 

The 'turn yourself around' part always gets me.  But after you do it a couple thousand times, it gets easier. 

And some graphite/pencil lead in the nut slots works wonders.

[veatch]

Yeah. That's what it's all about. 

[Jimbilly]

9 hours ago, LucSulla said:

@murkat gave me the best advice years ago - just use nylon nuts like they did originally. 

Joe talks about the old nylon nuts in this vid, - more stuff I did not know about

 

 

[Spinaltap]

why not, i'll give it a try

[velorush]

Not to get in the weeds... okay, yep, I'm in the weeds: is the nylon available today the same nylon? Or was the original nylon discontinued because of some conspiracy (and by conspiracy, I do not mean 'found by the State of California to be a carcinogen,' i.e., the subset otherwise known as "matter.")?

And I ask absolutely not due to tone, or, excuse me, TONE, concerns but strictly for functional concerns. 

[veatch]

Brings a slight wrinkle to the 14 degree vs 17 degree headstock angle argument, eh?

[velorush]

26 minutes ago, veatch said:

Brings a slight wrinkle to the 14 degree vs 17 degree headstock angle argument, eh?

[RobB]

22 hours ago, velorush said:

Not to get in the weeds... okay, yep, I'm in the weeds: is the nylon available today the same nylon? Or was the original nylon discontinued because of some conspiracy (and by conspiracy, I do not mean 'found by the State of California to be a carcinogen,' i.e., the subset otherwise known as "matter.")?

And I ask absolutely not due to tone, or, excuse me, TONE, concerns but strictly for functional concerns. 

My R0 has an OEM, nylon nut. It stays in tune perfectly. Maybe it’s the material, maybe I lucked out, maybe both?

[stobro]

On 3/10/2026 at 2:20 PM, velorush said:

Not to get in the weeds... okay, yep, I'm in the weeds: is the nylon available today the same nylon? Or was the original nylon discontinued because of some conspiracy (and by conspiracy, I do not mean 'found by the State of California to be a carcinogen,' i.e., the subset otherwise known as "matter.")?

And I ask absolutely not due to tone, or, excuse me, TONE, concerns but strictly for functional concerns. 

Nylon is a brand name, like Kleenex. The generic term is polyamide. There are many different grades of polyamide, of which what we think of as nylon is a subset. Jump deep into the weeds here: https://www.specialchem.com/plastics/guide/polyamide-pa-nylon

[velorush]

7 minutes ago, stobro said:

Nylon is a brand name, like Kleenex. The generic term is polyamide. There are many different grades of polyamide, of which what we think of as nylon is a subset. Jump deep into the weeds here: https://www.specialchem.com/plastics/guide/polyamide-pa-nylon

That's a cool site. Been over 40 years since I had organic chemistry, but it's interesting nonetheless. 

Further down it describes the different Nylons and I recall some discussion, maybe from @murkat about which of these was in the vintage Gibsons. 

Thanks for posting that. A great swath of weeds! 

[veatch]

I remember the numbers, but have no idea what it means...

Nylon 6/4 is what was used, but it is no longer available.  6/6 is the closest thing available today.  

Personally, for every nut I've replaced, I've used bone. (Don't be impressed. "Every nut" = like,  5 maybe 6...)  

[BoogieMKIIA]

If it works for you, great. I’m with @hamerhead, the “Martin method” for stringing works great. One could have an issue with the nut slots. Raising the angle may avoid a pinch point on the back side. Interesting to think how the nut material might have an impact on a string catching.

Regarding stringing methods, I tried Taylor’s method on my Taylor 12 string. It is an under/over method with the string end coming straight out of the tuner post. Looks great but tuning slipped even after being on for days. No problem when I went back to the Martin method.
 

 

[Jim85IROC]

A properly cut nut avoids all this nonsense.

[diablo175]

I know it's sacrilege but I avoid all that nonsense with this one. Locking nut and a blocked off Floyd actually work REALLY well for tuning stability. I dare say I really enjoy playing it more as a hard tail/fixed bridge than I did as a floating Floyd type.  

[hamerhead]

12 hours ago, BoogieMKIIA said:

...the “Martin method”....

Thanks!  I didn't know it was called that. Can't remember where I learned it, but it's an absolute game-changer. Makes me wonder how many guitars with 'tuning issues' I shouldn't have sold.