bubs_42 Posted July 30, 2011 Posted July 30, 2011 Man I don't want to spend the coin on a Mannmade Bridge just because it wouldn't look right. But I was thinking that the T51's Saddles would mount to a Daytona Bridge with the correct mounting screws... I do not like the saddles on my Daytona or any of the other Daytona's that i've owned. So if you changed out yours, what did you replace it with?
RobB Posted July 30, 2011 Posted July 30, 2011 Callaham vintage. Worked great. Measure the string spacing on your Wilkie before you proceed...
atquinn Posted July 31, 2011 Posted July 31, 2011 I was going to use the Mann trem I ended up using on my Mirage. Works great and doesn't look anymore out-of-place than the Wilky IMO. I'll be going for a Bladerunner the next time I replace a VSV though (unless I stumble upon a used Mann before then).-Austin
JohnnyB Posted July 31, 2011 Posted July 31, 2011 Man I don't want to spend the coin on a Mannmade Bridge just because it wouldn't look right. But I was thinking that the T51's Saddles would mount to a Daytona Bridge with the correct mounting screws... I do not like the saddles on my Daytona or any of the other Daytona's that i've owned. So if you changed out yours, what did you replace it with? I haven't swapped out a Strat bridge or saddles of any description, but I did replace a cheap Squier Jazz Bass bridge with a Full Contact Hardware bass bridge by Babicz. They also make Tele bridges (JWhitcomb3 has one and likes it a lot), and they also make a drop-in replacement for a 6-screw Strat bridge or a Strat saddle kit to accommodate other Strat bridge designs. This is a very cool saddle design. The saddles are cam-shaped and activated. The cam saddle is easy on the strings, but the cam mechanism makes it very easy to set action on the fly. A single allen hex wrench adjusts individual string height. No jockeying between two saddle height screws. For each string, lower the saddle until the string buzzes, and then raise it just enough so it doesn't buzz. You dial in the absolute best action with the least effort. Then another set screw locks the setting into place, adding better rigidity and tone transfer, something like TonePros. The Babicz bridge added more precise action and intonation as well as a fuller richer tone on my Jazz bass. I suspect the Strat bridge or saddle kit would do the same for a Daytona.
silentman Posted August 1, 2011 Posted August 1, 2011 I'm looking to the replace mine with the bladerunner. Just about to pull the trigger after I make a few measurements.
cmatthes Posted August 1, 2011 Posted August 1, 2011 I'm keeping the Wilky on my Daytona(s), but am definitely going to swap the stock Fender bridge out for a Bladerunner on my Strat.
bubs_42 Posted August 1, 2011 Author Posted August 1, 2011 Well I don't use the trem. I anchor that baby down so I think I'm just looking for a little more mass. It looks like Wilkie makes a trem for cheap that looks kinda like a Mannmade. Ebay wholesale for $50.
jwhitcomb3 Posted August 1, 2011 Posted August 1, 2011 Man I don't want to spend the coin on a Mannmade Bridge just because it wouldn't look right. But I was thinking that the T51's Saddles would mount to a Daytona Bridge with the correct mounting screws... I do not like the saddles on my Daytona or any of the other Daytona's that i've owned. So if you changed out yours, what did you replace it with? I haven't swapped out a Strat bridge or saddles of any description, but I did replace a cheap Squier Jazz Bass bridge with a Full Contact Hardware bass bridge by Babicz. They also make Tele bridges (JWhitcomb3 has one and likes it a lot), and they also make a drop-in replacement for a 6-screw Strat bridge or a Strat saddle kit to accommodate other Strat bridge designs. This is a very cool saddle design. The saddles are cam-shaped and activated. The cam saddle is easy on the strings, but the cam mechanism makes it very easy to set action on the fly. A single allen hex wrench adjusts individual string height. No jockeying between two saddle height screws. For each string, lower the saddle until the string buzzes, and then raise it just enough so it doesn't buzz. You dial in the absolute best action with the least effort. Then another set screw locks the setting into place, adding better rigidity and tone transfer, something like TonePros. The Babicz bridge added more precise action and intonation as well as a fuller richer tone on my Jazz bass. I suspect the Strat bridge or saddle kit would do the same for a Daytona. I've been totally enjoying the Babicz bridges on my Tele and Strat -- see strat thread. Since that post, I added a Goeldo Backbox trem setter and locking tuners, and I couldn't be happier. A strat with a full floating bridge with smooth action, great sustain and stays in tune through string bends, dive bombs and bar pulls. The Bladerunner looks cool too. I'd be curious to try it, but have no reason to touch my current strat config.
Scottcrud Posted August 1, 2011 Posted August 1, 2011 Anyone try the Boogie Rail system? Looks interesting. www.boogierail.com
atquinn Posted August 1, 2011 Posted August 1, 2011 Anyone try the Boogie Rail system? Looks interesting. www.boogierail.com Interesting, but my trem bridges are always floating. I don't like the fact that the BRail is designed to drop pitch only.-Austin
TobiTill Posted December 6, 2011 Posted December 6, 2011 Hi everyone,Resurrecting an old thread here.I have 2 strat copies, but ...I'm probably going to sell one (80s MIJ Fernandes) because I can't get the low frets and vintage fingerboard radius to work for me.I'm more used to playing guitars with a bigger radius and when playing strats I tend to bend a lot.So, I think I want to give a Daytona a try.I use the trem ex- and intensively when playing strats.So, 2 questions to Daytona owners:1. Any concerns concerning the Wilkinson except corrosion issues?2. Can it be set up in a way that when pulling up all the way you get 1 semitone pitch change on the high E-string, 1 whole tone on the B and a minor third on the G-string? (Like Carl Verheyen does and me , too, by the way . This is usually doable with 6-screw vintage trems)Any information is much appreciated.Have a nice day everyone.Regards,Tobias
polara Posted December 6, 2011 Posted December 6, 2011 I'm super happy with my Daytona, which is all stock. No corrosion (maybe I'm PH neutral?) and the guitar stays in tune very well. I can't answer the second question, though. I just have mine set up with mebbye 3/32" of space under the baseplate, dead level with the body, and it doesn't have the buzzy, mechanical occasional ghost echoes it had when I bought it with the baseplate screwed down tight.
TobiTill Posted December 6, 2011 Posted December 6, 2011 Thanks, Polara.Good to know that the Wilkinson does not seem to cause tuning problems.It looks like I might need to start looking for a nice lightweight Daytona with rosewood fingerboard in the new year.Regards,Tobias
cmatthes Posted December 6, 2011 Posted December 6, 2011 I'll second Rick's comments. My Daytona bridges haven't corroded even after heavy use over many years - even the gold-plated ones. Must be a chemistry thing. Between the Sperzels, the nut and the Wilkinson, the things never seem to go out of tune either. The only trem unit I like better is the PRS/MannMade one on my '80s PRS Custom. Still holding out and waiting to try a Bladerunner on the Daytona I'm rehabbing/modding (yep, it's lightweight and has a rosewood board ). If I decide to cheap out, I'll gladly put another Wilkinson on there.
Hamer Time Posted December 6, 2011 Posted December 6, 2011 I just upgraded mine to a newer Wilkinson for easier intonation, and replaced the saddles with Graph-Tech string savers. I just played it yesterday after it sat unplayed for almost 2 months, and it was still in tune.
TobiTill Posted December 8, 2011 Posted December 8, 2011 Thanks for the replies everyone, Apparently Daytonas are deemed stash-worthy. Will investigate possible stashes to raid...
burningyen Posted December 8, 2011 Posted December 8, 2011 I just upgraded mine to a newer Wilkinson for easier intonation, and replaced the saddles with Graph-Tech string savers.I just played it yesterday after it sat unplayed for almost 2 months, and it was still in tune.Which model Wilkinson did you go for? Steel block w/bent saddles and the pop-in arm? How do you like the arm action?
Hamer Time Posted December 9, 2011 Posted December 9, 2011 Which model Wilkinson did you go for? Steel block w/bent saddles and the pop-in arm? How do you like the arm action?This one..."Full Sized Inertia Block, Bent Steel saddles, Nickel plated- engraved with perfect vintage repro "WILKINSON_WILKINSON", Solid steel plate with six case hardened steel trem screws, Non-threaded push in arm with tension adjust but retains exact vintage look and feel, Stagerred block string spacing adjust for intonation- now every string has the same saddle-to-ball-end length!"http://www.guitarfetish.com/Wilkinson-Vintage-Tremolo-Pop-In-Arm-with-Block_p_897.htmlIt's the same as the original except for the saddles, they are the more modern type, easier intonation. To be honest I don't use the whammy bar, I have and it seemed OK to me, but I'm not really the person to judge whether it's good or not. The Wilkinson came original on the Hamer Daytona, so I would guess they're pretty good, unless there were some back-room dealings going on lol.
burningyen Posted December 9, 2011 Posted December 9, 2011 Thanks for the insight. I'm going to use the same Wilkinson design for my project but the one built by Gotoh for Allparts. I'll probably also test out a Gotoh 510T-SF2 for comparison.
polara Posted December 9, 2011 Posted December 9, 2011 Which model Wilkinson did you go for? Steel block w/bent saddles and the pop-in arm? How do you like the arm action?This one..."Full Sized Inertia Block, Bent Steel saddles, Nickel plated- engraved with perfect vintage repro "WILKINSON_WILKINSON", Solid steel plate with six case hardened steel trem screws, Non-threaded push in arm with tension adjust but retains exact vintage look and feel, Stagerred block string spacing adjust for intonation- now every string has the same saddle-to-ball-end length!"http://www.guitarfet...lock_p_897.htmlIt's the same as the original except for the saddles, they are the more modern type, easier intonation. To be honest I don't use the whammy bar, I have and it seemed OK to me, but I'm not really the person to judge whether it's good or not. The Wilkinson came original on the Hamer Daytona, so I would guess they're pretty good, unless there were some back-room dealings going on lol.I think http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailpieces/Electric_guitar_tremolos/Wilkinson_Gotoh_VSVG_Vintage_Tremolo.html this is Daytona bridge. Kind of hard to tell just what the differences are from Wilky to Wilky.
Hamer Time Posted December 9, 2011 Posted December 9, 2011 I think http://www.stewmac.c...ge_Tremolo.html this is Daytona bridge. Kind of hard to tell just what the differences are from Wilky to Wilky. That looks like a copy of the original bridge? Wilkinsons are better than Gotoh. The one I linked to fits the D perfectly, and its cheap right now, don't let the low price out you off... "Hey - Trev Wilkinson is a smart guy- not you don't have to put a cheap Gotoh unit on that prized strat- or deal with shimming your neck to accomodate a VS500 or VS1000- this FITS the stock, vintage spec guitars like a GLOVE."
burningyen Posted December 11, 2011 Posted December 11, 2011 Wilkinsons are better than Gotoh.Not according to Messrs. Tyler, Suhr, Melancon, and Grosh.
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