Floyd returning to pitch - or not!

[carfish7]

So, I have this great new-to-me SS1 Custom that is a devastating Rawk machine - except it won't return back to pitch properly. I thought at first it was my imagination, but the tuner confirms it winds up flat after a full dive. Does this mean the knife edges are compromised or is there anything else that causes this? I only ask because I'm lazy and am not in a hurry to tear it down and get filing.......

Nothing unusual in the way of trem movement that I can suss. Have yet to inspect the edges or posts.

Thanks in advance for any alternative suggestions.

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

When restringing, do you stretch the springs as well as the strings? I only discovered this info very recently & it seems to help...

[carfish7]

When restringing, do you stretch the springs as well as the strings? I only discovered this info very recently & it seems to help...

Nope. Never heard of such a thing. Do tell?

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

Ermmm... When restringing a Floyded guitar, as well as stretching the strings before locking down/fine tuning, also stretch the claw springs (will that do)?

[Bobby Marshall]

Dr. Murkat or Dr. Diablo to the OFR courtesy phone!

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

Also, when tuning, don't softly play each string. Strum the string to be tuned at the strength you actually play at. You'll notice the string tunes above pitch theharder you pluck it. So, pluck it (for tuning) as you would strike the string when playing. It all makes a difference)...

[Bobby Marshall]

Never heard of stretching springs, but the strings, most definitely. You will almost always go flat if you don't stretch them thoroughly prior to whammy abuse.

I guess I need to add Dr. Croll to my staff list.

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

This guy is a bit long-winded (and very annoying) but I got that info here:

http://youtu.be/8tfxy_zs0Mo

Deffo makes a difference to my Floyded guitars & they are more stable...

[RobB]

Find a small cup/bowl to keep track of your parts. If the bridge is balanced/set up to your liking, you might want to record any measurements (i.e., post height, spring claw distance from cavity wall, etc.) before disassembly.

1) Remove the strings.

2) Remove the spring claw/screws and springs.

3) Carefully remove the string blocks from the saddles. Examine them: are they warped/crushed or crusted with gunk? If salvageble, clean them up with a small, wire brush and WD40 or 3/1 oil.

4) Check the saddles. Are the string block holes corroded/dirty? Are the forks bent or deformed? Do the small allen bolts sit tight with no wobble? Are the long allen bolts rusty?

5) Check the bridge posts. Are they notched?

6) Check the base plate where it meets the bridge posts. Any dings/burrs? A circular file or a Dremel tool with the wire disk can clean these up, but go carefully. If it is too far gone, it's easy to replace the Schaller base plates.

7) Once everything checks out, lube all friction points (spring claw holes/screw heads, each spring hook ring/holes in the string block and the bridge posts/base plate) and reassemble. I use Big Bends Nut Sauce but any mechanical grease will work.

8) Remember, Floyd strings need to be really stretched out before the final clamping at the nut. I leave the nut clamps a little loose while stretching and adjusting the spring tension. Try not to use too much torque on the locking parts (nut/saddles). I wrench them to where the bolt stops and give it another light turn to finish.

Good luck! You've got a beauty SS there. Once you get used to the idiosyncrasies of the Floyd bridge you'll find what a great invention they are. I love my Gotoh Floyd and find it rarely goes out of tune, even with old, dead strings.

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

I love my Gotoh Floyd and find it rarely goes out of tune, even with old, dead strings.

Gotoh's rule! My upgrade of choice...

[Armitage]

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailpieces/Electric_guitar_tremolo_parts/Floyd_Rose_tremolos_and_parts/String_Lock_Inserts_for_Floyd_Rose_Tremolo.html

As well, a common problem on older Floyded guitars is the little string block in the bridge gets a grove in it from over tightening and it allows the string to slide out a bit.

[Eric Weston]

Have yet to inspect the edges or posts.

Thanks in advance for any alternative suggestions.

I had this problem with my Centaura twice. The first time I had to clean up the posts(grooved and a bit rusty) and resharpen the knife edges.....and it worked.

Another time though, I found that the locknut had loosened (from the neck), only about an eighth to a quarter turn of the set-screws but it was enough. I snugged those screws down and it was perfect again.

[burningyen]

I would not stretch the springs, at least not beyond their normal operating range.

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

No, deffo don't stretch them beyond the operating range = that would just be stupid! I'm sure all the info you need is in the video I posted...

[murkat]

new springs.

fender oem Black trem springs.

I have found that they are tops in tension and tencil strength

while maintaining consistency.

Also,

one spring on low E side,

one spring on High E side

one spring next to High E side, B string.

Un wound strings have a higher tension than the wound strings

trem arm is on the un wound string side.

This balances the tension

rather than the silly two spring V mount popularized by

Eddie Van look at me, I boil my strings, use a variac to melt my tubes into submission and use two springs bullshit

[MCChris]

^^^

Oh pow

[coolfeel]

new springs.

fender oem Black trem springs.

I have found that they are tops in tension and tencil strength

while maintaining consistency.

Also,

one spring on low E side,

one spring on High E side

one spring next to High E side, B string.

Un wound strings have a higher tension than the wound strings

trem arm is on the un wound string side.

This balances the tension

rather than the silly two spring V mount popularized by

Eddie Van look at me, I boil my strings, use a variac to melt my tubes into submission and use two springs bullshit

+1 on the new springs. I had a Vandenberg Custom that would never go back to level when using the whammy. Springs were ancient - changed them and voila - all was well...

[FrankieIII]

Make sure the nut is tightened down good to the neck.

[Brooks]

also check the screws that hold the saddles for intonation.

[diablo175]

Check to see that the block is not getting hung up anywhere in the cavity as well. An impinged block or even a base plate that's rubbing on the side of the body can also effect the return to pitch. Though I seriously doubt Hamer QC would have allowed something like that to go out of the shop. Aftermarket installs, maybe. The grooved locking nut is a common issue as a result of over tightening. I turn it 'til it's just snug and then leave it alone- never had an issue there.

Eddie Van Who? I do use two springs and often have to use the V config because I cannot tighten the claw arm to the body any more. The V config adds sufficient additional tension on the trem, keeping the base more or less parallel with the body. The common response is, "why not use heavier springs?" My response is: "I do. But on those that still have the stock Floyd springs, I use the V config because it has a spongier feel and it works." Heavier springs do not warble as well I've found.

Naturally, if you like a stiffer trem feel, then 3 springs, in the suggested Murkat config will work.

BTW, Vic, never heard of stretching your trem springs. Ever. But who knows. Maybe it works.

[Armitage]

The V Shape is used to give the same pull against the string tension, but an easier feel and flutter. As everyone who remembers Force Vectors from school will know.

Remember these?

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

BTW, Vic, never heard of stretching your trem springs. Ever.

Neither had I til 2 weeks ago. I never stretched 'em before...

[diablo175]

I'm from the school of thought that states: if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Never had issues with my Floyd returning to pitch because I didn't stretch my springs, ergo, I don't need to stretch my springs,,,

I've replaced springs that have lost a bit of their, umm, spring. But never stretched them. I would think that would hasten the need to have them replaced...

[cynic]

For the record, we ALL stretch our springs through normal use...it's kinda the point

Unless you install new springs with each string change, I'd argue they're already stretched.

[JES1680]

Recently had this issue with my Wolfgang, was driving me nuts. Lubricated the fulcrum points where the bridge meets the studs with some chapstick, vasilene, etc... Did the trick. I'd never heard of this before.