Bass strings?

[carfish7]

I have always used DiAddario's just because that;s what I use on my guitars. I just got a fantastic new bass and want to try something new just for kicks. I play fingerstyle 90% of the time and dig a very rich, "piano" tone. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

[velorush]

JohnnyB has some great advice on this. I used what he taught me and went to www.bassstringsonline.com. Jason (owner) answered a million questions and then caught my order before I accidentally bought the wrong strings (I needed a longer set) - great prices, he even sent me a couple of gig photos of his strap when I was trying to pick out a nice one (he sells those, too). He has a great rapport on talk-bass, as well.

I went with Ken Smith Compressors - compression-wound strings, not flat / not round... just right! Love the tone; pretty piano-like, but I'm probably too much of a a noob to trust with tone considerations.

[Armitage]

After hanging out so much at F-bass, I used a custom set of La Bella Super Steps.

[tbonesullivan]

I like la bella strings. With the super steps, just be aware that the the spacing between saddle and anchor point differs from bass to bass, and that you can run into intonation issues if you have too much exposed "core" at the bridge.

[Thundersteel]

You change strings on your basses? I've still got the original sets on both my G&Ls I bought 3 - 4 years ago!

[carfish7]

You change strings on your basses? I've still got the original sets on both my G&Ls I bought 3 - 4 years ago!

The bass in question is new to me just today, and the strings on it are extremely old and gross, otherwise I never change them either.

[Cary]

I liked Blue Steels by Dean Markley, but they were expensive. Most of the time I just used D'Addarios, because when I was gigging I changed them after every two weekends.

[Turdus]

I play fingerstyle 90% of the time and dig a very rich, "piano" tone. Any suggestions?

D'Addario gives that tone. Either that, or EB Slinkys. Roto's are great, when new, but I find them to go dull real quick.

[gtone]

RotoSounds sound good, but they do wear out faster than some other brands.

[Cary]

FWIW, I used to buy all my strings at Juststrings.com. They had decent prices, IIRC.

[Jimbilly]

I've tried quite a few over the years, I still like D'Addario Slow-wounds best, and the tapered low B is cool (on a 5, the B is pretty big, and the wind is smaller over the brigde). They seem to last a long time for me, they do lose that new 'brightness' fairly quickly, but stay good and playable for a long time.

So you're going to leave us hanging about what kind of hot new bass you got?

[carfish7]

Thanks guys! I guess I might just stick with the DiAddario's since they always seemed to sound like I wanted them to......

So you're going to leave us hanging about what kind of hot new bass you got?

Nothing that will excite anyone here I don't think, but I picked up a MIJ 80's Yamaha BB1600 in black with gold hardware. It just put my benchmark Squier JV P-bass on the FS block........

[crunchee]

I like it, I remember seeing those a lot when they were new-ish. Are the pickup surrounds real brass?

I use Fender flatwound stainless steel 9050L Lights. I like their sound, and if I want extra brightness, I'll use a heavy pick.

[Hamer Time]

D'Addario balanced tension are really nice strings, just put some on my Stingray. Basically they are XL's, but apparently mathematically optimized for more equal tension across the strings. It is noticeable when you first switch.

[marcnorth]

RotoSounds for the best sound, but they don't last as long.

[Hamer Bass Head]

Try the DRs.... There are a few varieties, with subtle differences and they last a really long time. I especially like the high beams. The 55-110 sets are to die for!

[JohnnyB]

I like la bella strings. With the super steps, just be aware that the the spacing between saddle and anchor point differs from bass to bass, and that you can run into intonation issues if you have too much exposed "core" at the bridge.

The "steps" concept helps get more of that "piano tone." LaBellas are great, but if you don't want to spend over $40/set, Ken Smith makes the Taper Core line. The same rules apply concerning matching up your bass with the tapered part of the string. And of course you have to adjust saddle height when switching to them. The GHS line is Contact Core. Both are stainless steel. For a warmer sound GHS also offers nickel/iron Taper Core.

I really like GHS (and Ken Smith) bass strings in general, and GHS is a bit of a bargain given their durability, sustain, and consistent clear tone. You might find this chart helpful for matching strings to your tone quest:

I know this is off-topic for strings, but for ultimate piano tone, some basses do it bette rthan others. Check out a Lightwave Saber bass with optical pickup. Pianos don't have magnets under the strings. You don't know how much magnetic pickups affect sustain until you play one of these:

Then there's the multi-scale Dingwall. Hear what a 37" low B or 36.25" low E can do for you. The consistent string-to-string tone when each string length is appropriate to its pitch range is another revelation.

[Steve Haynie]

Every Yamaha bass is cool no matter what price range it had new. The cheap ones and the expensive ones all feel right when you play them.

If you want piano tones you should try a 2-TEK bridge.

[carfish7]

Every Yamaha bass is cool no matter what price range it had new. The cheap ones and the expensive ones all feel right when you play them.

If you want piano tones you should try a 2-TEK bridge.

Will have that when I get my next Cruise 5 for sure. I miss it already. My shoulders don't though!

[velorush]

Nothing that will excite anyone here I don't think, but I picked up a MIJ 80's Yamaha BB1600 in black with gold hardware. It just put my benchmark Squier JV P-bass on the FS block........

Au contraire!

I came super close to buying one of those when I was shopping for my first bass. I really like the shape, and like someone said, Yamahas feel great regardless of where in the price range they fall.

[Tres Aardvarks]

Then there's the multi-scale Dingwall. Hear what a 37" low B or 36.25" low E can do for you. The consistent string-to-string tone when each string length is appropriate to its pitch range is another revelation.

I've always wanted to try a Dingwall, but since I don't have particularly long fingers, the idea of an even longer scale makes me cringe. I actually really dig the medium scale on my B12M, and think a B4M would suit me lots (but I just can't imagine getting rid of my Impact!)

[aknapp]

[JohnnyB]

Then there's the multi-scale Dingwall. Hear what a 37" low B or 36.25" low E can do for you. The consistent string-to-string tone when each string length is appropriate to its pitch range is another revelation.

I've always wanted to try a Dingwall, but since I don't have particularly long fingers, the idea of an even longer scale makes me cringe. I actually really dig the medium scale on my B12M, and think a B4M would suit me lots (but I just can't imagine getting rid of my Impact!)

My hands are probably smaller than yours. I've played a Dingwall and the fanfret layout is no problem at all. It takes about 2 minutes (if that) to adjust to it. Consider how most people play 5-string bass most of the time--you're usually playing between the 3rd and 15th frets. Look at that part of the fretboard--that's where it fans the least and it pretty much feels like playing any fretted bass. Feels like, but doesn't sound like. The other thing you notice, and the thing that makes playing a fanfret Dingwall worthwhile is how every string is pulled at about the same tension, and each of the strings has the same timbre. Two of the most noticeable differences are that you hear much more of the fundamental string tone on the B and E strings, and the G string doesn't sound thin and snarky.

I've seriously thought about getting rid of most of my basses to get a Dingwall to concentrate on playing a fan fret 5-string well. It's a powerful beast.

[mc2]

I used to use most any brand until I tried Dean Marley SR2000 sets back in the 90s. I have stuck with them ever since on my 4- and 5-string basses.

The big plus features on these strings are:

1) they are stainless steel and my sweat does not kill them like most other brands. I think the stainless steel also makes them hard to break....I have never had one break. Add a $5 can of Fingerease string lube/cleaner and you can get them to last longer than most anything else.

2) they have a tapered wrap so only the string core goes over the saddle...allows you to into ate them much better than strings with the fat wrap over the saddles.

3) I originally used the Will lee Signature set, which I think is now just coded as the WL set. What is cool about this gauge is that they used the same gauges in the 4-. 5- and 6-string sets...so if you did break a string, you could swipe an identical one from any of the sets you had (normally they differ.). But I have also used the Medium lights and lights.

4) On my root-octave basses I prefer GHS Boomers or sometimes D'addarios (factory is a few miles from me.)

[Jimbilly]

There's one of those neck through Yamahas at a pawn shop in my area, they won't budge below $550 for now, I keep offering $250, pretty soon they're take it. I have a '70s Yamaha P (bolt on), it's heavy, very cool, and all the P bass I'll ever need.

[carfish7]

There's one of those neck through Yamahas at a pawn shop in my area, they won't budge below $550 for now, I keep offering $250, pretty soon they're take it. I have a '70s Yamaha P (bolt on), it's heavy, very cool, and all the P bass I'll ever need.

I had one of those - "Pulser" it was called. Great bass that wound up with a twisted neck or I'd still be playing it!